The Brasstard » gun accessories

In Review: “Strelok” Ballistic Calculator App for Android OS

admin — Thu, 03 May 2012 04:50:10 +0000

Images Courtesy of Igor Borisov - "Strelok" Developer

The “Strelok” app by developer Igor Borisov is a free, high-quality ballistic calculator for Android OS that has many noteworthy attributes (the “donate” version is $9.99). This independent review post will take you through the top features and highlights of this excellent marksmanship tool.

Aside from being free, Strelok is an autonomous software package that once installed, does not require an internet connection to provide full functionality. This is nice if you are out in the middle of nowhere and need to use it. Furthermore, as of the date of this post, Strelok does not require invasive permissions, nor does it bombard you with piles of annoying ad’s like other “free” apps do. It only requires read/write permissions to the SD card to store your data. This app is also very resource friendly, meaning that you can use it for many hours in the field without excess drain on your battery from background processes.

Images Courtesy of Igor Borisov - "Strelok" Developer

Strelok is an easy to use and highly functional calculator that processes the relevant ballistic variables, and spits out useful data for making accurate shots. The user interface is simple and easy to navigate. You can build customized weapon profiles that are stored on the SD card for rapid retrieval, and there’s a whole boatload of reticle profiles built into the app (more are added with each update). Despite being a bit rudimentary from a design perspective, the interface is very user friendly and should be easy for non-techies to handle. You simply fill in the information for the variable fields, choose the appropriate reticle, and Strelok does the rest.

Images Courtesy of Igor Borisov - "Strelok" Developer

Some of the other key features include:

Temperature and barometric inputs
Slope angle inputs
Wind direction and speed inputs
Detailed cartridge data inputs
Customizable reticle variables
Graphic ballistic compensation output
Graphic angular data output
Table-based data output
Data output in metric, inches, MOA, MILs, clicks, etc…

Image Courtesy of Igor Borisov - "Strelok" Developer

Strelok is a great tool on the range and in the field. In the future, I expect to see even more reticle options as the developer rolls out subsequent updates. I would also urge them to add a database of ballistic coefficient (B.C.) values for major bullet makes & marks, as well a B.C. estimator/calculator. Currently, you have to get your B.C. values from an external source. Nonetheless, this is by far my favorite ballistic calculator for Android, and one of the friendliest “free” apps on the Google Play store.

Have fun and play safe!

The Brasstard

Building Your Own Custom 10/22

admin — Thu, 01 Mar 2012 06:12:29 +0000

I recently decided to breathe some new life into my father’s 30-year-old Ruger 10/22 carbine. This rifle has been with him for as long as I can remember. This is the rifle that I learned to shoot with, and until a few days ago, it was straight-off-the-shelf stock. I thought I would share the build process with folks out there, in case some of you are pondering the potential of pimping-out your plinker. The following post will show you exactly how it’s done.

Before you start dumping hundreds of dollars on aftermarket parts, you ought to consider your overall theme. Do you want a bench rest match gun, a lightweight varmint hunter, a tactical-esque desert fun gun, etc…? In this build, I was going for a lightweight, yet highly accurate target gun for various steel matches, along with the aesthetic qualities of a medium/long-range tactical rifle.

There are four primary areas to consider based on your needs:

Trigger: Reducing the trigger pull alone will cut your group size by at least 30%, even if no other mods are made. You can reduce the trigger pull by buying a simple hammer and spring kit and doing some light stoning of the factory sear. If you really want to burn through some cash, you can get an entire custom trigger group.
Barrel: An aftermarket, match-grade barrel is not essential for every build design. I have seen some great rifles built on the Ruger factory tapered barrel. However, if you are planning on going sub-MOA, plan on shelling out the funds for one.
Stock: There are dozens of styles to choose from depending on your theme. These range from collapsible M4-style stocks, to rubberized poly stocks, to laminated wooden target stocks with thumbholes, etc. Remember to consider your barrel option when selecting a stock; .920 bull barrels won’t fit in a stock made for a factory barrel. Also, consider the barrel bedding options; a heavy, all-steel bull barrel mounted in that light aluminum receiver may need to be bedded rather than free-floated to ensure stability.
Sights/Optics/Mounts: Those cute little factory sights will likely have to be upgraded for virtually any serious custom build. If you are sticking with iron sights only, check out www.tech-sights.com. I put their aperture sights on another 10/22 build, and I just love them. Otherwise, choose a decent piece of glass and some solid mounting hardware. Don’t go too cheap in this area just because it’s going on a .22. Consider the size of your scope’s objective lens and your desired “cheek weld” when choosing the height of your scope rings.

PARTS LIST

Below is the product list for my build. If you like it, go ahead and copy it. I promise I won’t pull an “Apple” and sue you over it.

Volquartsen – Drop-In Hammer Kit
Power-Custom – Titanium Extended Mag Release
Weigand Combat – Tactical Picatinny Scope Base
Tactical Solutions – Fluted Aluminum Threaded .920 Barrel 16.5”
Weaver – 1” Tactical Rings, Includes Torx Wrench
Burris – Rimfire 1” Rifle Scope 3x-9x 40mm
Hogue – Rubber Over-Molded Stock
Volquartsen – Exact-Edge Extractor
Volquartsen – Polyurethane Bolt Buffer

REQUIRED TOOLS FOR THIS BUILD

3/32” Punch for trigger group cross pins
SAE Allen/Hex wrench set for barrel removal and set screws
Small flathead screwdriver for receiver screws
Automotive pick tool or other hard, hooked object to contract the extractor plunger
Needle nose pliers for grabbing small parts
Padded vice to hold rifle and/or trigger housing while working
800-1200 grit sand paper in case barrel needs minor fitting
Triangular or square stoning rod for polishing the sear (optional)
2 small bubble levels for mounting a scope (optional)
Reaming tool for scope rings (optional)

_____________________________________________________________

WARNING: UNLOAD YOUR FIREARM AND REMOVE ALL AMMO FROM THE WORK AREA! READ THIS DISCLAIMER BEFORE YOU BEGIN.

START YOUR BUILD

1) Disassemble your rifle as shown in these instructions.

2) Disassemble your trigger group and hammer strut assembly as shown in these instructions.

3) Clean and lube all parts. Separate and store the old/replaced parts as emergency spares.

STEP 1: Preparing the Trigger Group

1) Install the replacement hammer spring onto the strut. (the large spring)

2) Install the replacement trigger return spring on the strut behind the trigger. (the small spring)

3) Polish the contact surfaces of the sear with a triangular or square armorers stone. CAUTION: When stoning the sear, do not remove any metal or alter the dimensions and cut angles in any way.

The goal is to lightly polish the surfaces to reduce friction at the contact points.

4) Install the new extended magazine release and hammer kit as shown in the reassembly instructions. Make sure you put the hammer bushing spacer rings on the inside, so they are touching the hammer, and then finish reassembling the trigger group as instructed.

STEP 2: Replacing the Barrel

1) Remove the factory barrel by unscrewing the two retaining block screws with a 5/32” hex wrench.

2) Carefully pull the factory barrel out of the receiver.

3) Insert the replacement barrel into the receiver. CAUTION: Do not force the barrel into place. Due to slightly varying tolerances of rifles that have been in production for many decades now, your barrel may need minor fitting. Do not get tempted to take your mallet and try to force it in. Use a small piece of super-fine grit sandpaper and twist away on the outside of the breech end to reduce the circumference a little. Then add a bit of lube and slide it into place.

4) Reinstall the barrel retaining block and screws. Being that the receiver is made of aluminum, try not to over-torque any screws that go into it.

STEP 3: Installing the Optic Mounting Rail

1) Remove the tiny set screws that are used to plug the mounting holes on top of the receiver.

2) Clean and lightly lube the contact surfaces between the receiver and the rail with a silicone gun cloth.

3) Install the mount by aligning the mounting holes with those on the receiver, and insert the included mounting screws. Again, use caution not to over-torque.

Step 4: Installing the Extractor

1) Place the bolt in a vice with the extractor side up.

2) Use an automotive pick/scraper tool or other hooked contrivance to contract the plunger towards the rear of the bolt. *The plunger is the little steel cylinder between the extractor and it’s spring*

3) While holding the plunger back with one hand, use your needle nose pliers to pull the extractor back, up and out.

4) Slowly release the plunger. CAUTION: Be careful not to let the spring send your plunger flying. This kit does not come with a new plunger, and they are very easy to lose.

5) Swap the old spring with the replacement spring, insert and contract the plunger/spring, and install the new extractor. Slowly release the plunger to retain the extractor.

6) Test the range of motion and make sure it is secure by pushing the extractor side-to-side several times.

STEP 5: Reassemble the Rifle Using the New Stock:

1) Follow the reassembly instructions shown here.

2) Make sure you replace the steel bolt stop pin with the polyurethane bolt buffer after installing the bolt into the receiver.

3) Follow the stock manufacturer’s instructions for proper barrel bedding. This Hogue stock has a V-shaped bedding block just ahead of the receiver to provide some harmonic stabilization and structural support. The barrel is tensioned against the bedding block when the stock retaining screw is inserted and torqued.

STEP 6: Mounting the Optics:

Properly mounting a rifle scope is a sizable subject that likely needs its own dedicated mini-post. For that reason, I will not be covering it in detail here. If you need help with mounting your optics, you can simply refer to the wealth that is your search engine. And of course, you may always post your questions below for feedback from fellow users and yours truly.

_______________________________________________________________________

THE FINISHED PRODUCT:

VIRGIN FALLING PLATES MATCH:

Above is a video clip of the new build in action. I am shooting at the right-side set of plates, while my opponent works on the left. This is at 100-yards on the bench. The new build almost made it too easy.

Have fun and play safe,

The Brasstard

Next Generation Techlite Lumen Master

admin — Wed, 29 Feb 2012 06:27:23 +0000

It appears that the folks at Techlite take customer concerns into serious consideration. Not too long ago, Techlite released a Gen-2 Lumen Master 150-Lumen Tactical Flashlight, and more recently, a 200-Lumen version as well. Techlite addressed some major points of contention that arose from the troubled Gen-1 version. You can read more about those problems in the user comments on this page. In the following post, I will report on my test findings of three of the updated Gen-2 Lumen Master flashlights that I picked up at Costco.

First of all, let’s talk about the things that Techlite upgraded in Generation-2 to improve on the shortcomings of Generation-1.

They fixed the numerous problems caused by the overly-complex circuitry in the old tail switch. The simplified new switch is covered by opaque black rubber and does not have a low battery indicator. It also does not have a voltage threshold; in other words, it does not require a fresh battery level of voltage to operate. You can run the battery down until the light just dims out, rather than stopping abruptly when the voltage threshold has been reached.
The first change also fixed the failure to reset the switch circuit after the low-battery indicator came on. This had caused some lights to permanently stop working after the first set of batteries went dead… even after installing fresh batteries.
The first change also fixed the dormant battery drain issue regarding batteries being consumed when the light is stored with batteries installed. The new switch does not appear to allow any current to flow when the light is turned off. Read on for the burn time results of the Gen-2, 150.
They beefed up the battery retainer. The Gen-2 retainer sports a thicker, higher-quality and more robust plastic that is less prone to cracking when batteries are installed and removed.

Test Results

I tested a 3-pack of Lumen Master 150’s using the standard Duracell Coppertop batteries that were included in the package from Costco. Before testing, I installed the batteries and left the lights in a drawer for 6-weeks. After sitting for a month and a half with the batteries installed, I ran each light through one of the following tests.

[Light 1] High-Beam Burn Time: 129 minutes of total burn time, with notably diminished brightness after 108 minutes.
[Light 2] Low-Beam Burn Time: 236 minutes of total burn time, with notably diminished brightness after 189 minutes.
[Light 3] Abuse Test: For this portion of the test, I subjected one light to the worst form of abuse I could come up with… I gave it to my two-year-old. She has been banging it around for about 2-months now, and it is still alive and still running on the original batteries.

I was amazed at the long run times recorded, especially considering that my Gen-1 Lumen Master’s would not even turn on after 6-weeks of sitting. The 200-Lumen version has similar switch architecture, but will undoubtedly produce a shorter burn time than the 150. These lights produce a bright, well-defined primary beam for visual incapacitation, along with a wide-circumference secondary beam to illuminate your surroundings. Overall, the light beam quality is top-notch.

On a side-note of personal opinion, I would still like to see the activation switch further simplified by only having on/off/momentary. I also wish the 1-second delay of the momentary function was not there. For these reasons, I still find that this light leans more toward sport/utility use than tactical use. I prefer my tactical light to be as simple as possible, and of course, instantaneous.

Overall, these critical updates make the Techlite Lumen Master a real contender in the sport/utility light industry. At $20 for a 3-pack with batteries and lanyards, it certainly is an incredible value that should not be passed up.

In Review: Akuna Brass Catcher (ABC)

admin — Mon, 27 Dec 2010 20:00:10 +0000

If you reload for auto pistol’s, I am certain that you are familiar with the hassles of tracking down your spent brass after it has been launched into the upper edge of the exosphere. This article will take an in-depth look at the latest version of brass catchers from Sherwood Akuna.

The Akuna Brass Catcher (ABC) is attached to the pistol via standard accessory rail, and can be locked into place by (gasp) bending the lower-front bar into the retaining notch.

The brass collection basket is supported by dual, coated metal rods and a tension wire.

The collection basket is made of a coated synthetic mesh, with a detachable collection pouch.

The collector covers both the top and side of the ejection port.

_______________________________________________________________

Performance:

The field testing of the ABC revealed some strengths and some weaknesses. The first thing I noticed about it (before I even set foot on the shooting range) is that the rubberized coating was flaking off all over my hands and my gun. I can’t imagine that the coating will last very long with heavy use if it is coming off from merely installing the unit. As a result of the brittle coating, there were a couple of spots where the metal rod beneath was exposed… and this was right out of the box.

The next issue I had with the Akuna Brass Catcher was the fact that I had to bend the metal bar in order to get it to lock into place on the Weaver rail notch. Over time, tightening and releasing this lock bar will most likely work-harden the metal, causing it to become brittle and break off… sort of like bending a paper clip back and forth until it breaks. On a positive note, the unit attaches pretty firmly even without engaging the lock bar. So, it will stay in place with lighter recoiling target loads even if you do not bend the bar into the retaining notch. However, when I fired some 10mm max loads without the lock bar engaged, the recoil moved the ABC out of position after just a handful of rounds.

The final issue that got to me was the fact that the ABC only caught about 40% of the brass I fired. The rest hit the rim of the basket and fell to the ground at my feet… still better than ending up in the next zip code, which is where my 10mm brass usually ends up.

As it stands, the current level of design and materials do not coincide with the substantial price tag of $80. Ideally, this device would have a frame made of injection-molded polymer, with an easily-engaged lock mechanism, such as those you would find on a tactical light/laser combo. That way we could reduce the weight, bypass the messy rubber coating and questionable lock system, and simultaneously tame the excessively high price tag.

Unfortunately, small businesses have difficulty affording the massive up-front design and tooling costs of injection-molded parts, and instead rely on tedious, hand-fitted wire bending, and baths in mystery rubber. Despite all of it’s shortcomings, this is actually one of the better units currently available. That says a lot about the massive void in the status quo of this niche market.

I can only hope that Mr. Akuna chooses to reinvest his sales earnings into creating a molded unit. He is on the right track with the basics of the design concept, but really needs to address the critical issues above to create an item of value. Until then, the search for the ideal pistol brass catcher treads forth.

For more info, go to http://www.sherwoodakuna.com/

Happy Shootin’

The Brasstard

In Review: Garmin eTrex GPS

admin — Sat, 28 Aug 2010 00:53:16 +0000

For hunters, fishermen and outdoorsmen, navigation to and from our recreation site has become much easier in recent years. As GPS units become cheaper, smaller and more accurate, we have run out of reasons to procrastinate the adoption of this technology into our outfit. The eTrex unit in this review came in a package deal with a Burris Fulfield II rifle scope. Though this exact model is not in production anymore, it is virtually identical to the newer eTrex H, which has a more sensitive receiver with the same basic features. Garmin’s eTrex line is a no-nonsense trail tracker unit designed for ease of use, long battery life and enough navigation features to get you home safely.

The eTrex controls are simple and the entire unit is waterproof rated at IPX7 (1m for 30 min). This means that a quick wade through a shallow river won’t shut it down.

The power button also turns on the display back-light if you are hiking in the dark.

When you first turn the unit on, it takes a few minutes to track your location. You will see the progress on the satellite tracking page above. Once you see “ready to navigate”, you are good to go. Ideally, you will have line-of-sight view with at least four GPS satellites. If not, you can get by on only three with a bit less accuracy.

The next page is the track log, which generates a small “map” of your journey. This unit does not actually contain any real maps that you would normally install via data port. However, it does give you a zoomable visual reference of where you have been so you can easily backtrack to your trail head. You can store 10 track logs, 20 routes, and 500 waypoints.

The compass screen provides an accurate heading and speedometer. Just remember, the unit does not have a real magnetic compass built in, so you have to be moving to get an accurate reading. Additionally, if the unit loses signal, runs out of batteries, or otherwise fails, your compass is gone too. No one ever said that a GPS unit is a replacement for a good old fashioned compass and map. Think of it more as a navigation enhancement accessory to add to your existing orienteering arsenal.

The trip data page allows you to customize the data that is displayed in the five fields. You can select things such as bearing, odometer, ETA, vertical speed, etc.

The menu page is easy to navigate and allows you to setup the eTrex GPS to your own specifications. This is also where the time/date and battery meter is located.

The Garmin eTrex 12-Channel GPS runs on two AA batteries. Garmin claims up to 22 hours of continuous-use battery life according to their website. In my experience, you can realistically expect about 15-17 hours with alkaline batteries depending on how much you use the back light. You can get slightly longer life out of lithium batteries. Nonetheless, this is plenty of juice for day trips, and with a hand full of spare batteries, you could leave it running for an entire weekend.

The eTrex has some cool features built in such as “hunt/fish” which gives you estimates for the best times to find game in that area. This is a somewhat rudimentary estimate as this data can vary greatly from one species to the next. It also gives you sunrise/set and moonrise/set and phase for a given waypoint. You can also use “project” to create a new or future waypoint from your current location.

The “go-to” feature allows you to select any marked waypoint to navigate towards. It gives you bearing and heading markers, speed, ETA, and distance remaining.

Conclusion:

The Garmin eTrex GPS is a decent little entry-level unit for basic outdoor navigation and venture tracking. It is easy to use, lightweight, and affordable. You can expect to pay between $80-100 for one of the eTrex H units online.

The only problem I have had with this unit is that it can be sensitive to how and where you hold it. For example, don’t expect it to work well if you toss it in your pants pocket and hike 12 miles into the back country before checking it. If you lose signal, the unit cannot track your course, so when you regain a decent signal, your tracks will have chunks missing. It seems to work best when you hold it in your palm, away from your body with the screen facing skyward. When I do this, I get perfect reception every time. I am assuming that the newer eTrex H will not have this issue as it is endowed with stronger reception due to improved receiver sensitivity.

I also noticed that the elevation of my waypoints can vary from day to day by as much as 40 ft even when I have at least four satellites to track. So, don’t expect pinpoint accuracy to the nearest inch. It will however, help you find your way back to the car/camp/boat after a long day of fun in the sun.

So, if you are looking for a compact, easy to use GPS unit to toss in your tackle box, take a good look at the Garmin eTrex or eTrex H GPS. If you are like me, you will be pleasantly surprised at just how useful these simple units can be in the field.

Have Fun Out There!

The Brasstard

In Review: The Venerable Glock 20

admin — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 01:20:29 +0000

Part combat sidearm, part mountain gun, the Glock Model 20 is a serious workhorse with vast potential. For many 10mm Auto aficionado’s, it is revered as being one of the best platforms for this hefty cartridge. After spending a considerable amount of time with one by my side, I have little choice but to agree. Lets take a closer look at what makes the G20 such a wonderful and diverse tool…

The large-frame G20 shares controls that will be familiar for any Glock owner. It is a no-nonsense system that is simple, reliable, and easy to operate. Squeezing the 5.5 pound double action trigger deactivates the multiple integrated safety mechanisms and retracts the internal striker. The trigger breaks clean, with minimal over-travel and a reasonably short reset. For a stock double action trigger, the G20 is very conducive of good accuracy. On the subject of accuracy, you would be hard pressed to find an autoloader that handles long-range shooting as well as the G20. With the right loads, you can shoot relatively flat out to about 150 yards. And from a rested position with some hold-over, I was able to hit a torso-sized steel target at 300 yards about 60% of the time. Not too bad for these aging eyes.

The front strap of the 3rd generation G20’s have finger grooves for added grip stability. Some folks say the grips on these big Glocks feel like you are holding a 2×4. You may or may not agree, as this is a matter that is purely subjective. But for my large hands, it feels like it was custom made for me.

The back strap also has a molded-in texture for added traction. It is designed to keep the web of your hand high in relation to the bore axis. This, along with the aggressive grip angle, helps keep the muzzle flip to a minimum by forcing the slide straight back, as opposed to up and away.

The stock sights were one of the first things I had to get rid of. I have never been a big fan of Glock’s proprietary polymer sights, and didn’t even get it home before I removed them. These low-profile Trijicon night sights make for a good balance between the many uses I have for this gun. Glock also offers quality factory night sights as an optional upgrade.

If you are planning on running full-power 10mm loadings through your G20, you should seriously consider using a 22-pound recoil spring instead of the stock 17-pound spring. It helps to keep the breech closed longer during cycling, which gives you more consistent velocities and resists the premature opening of the breech. The spring can be fitted over a nice aftermarket steel or tungsten guide rod for a smooth and silky action.

The standard magazines have a 15-round capacity, and neutered 10-round mags are also available if you happen to live in a rights-restricted state. With 15+1 rounds of brawny 10mm in your hands, you have more firepower than virtually any other auto-loading handgun on the market.

A wide and tapered magazine well makes for fast and easy reloads. This unit has been fitted with a Scherer Slug Plug to help keep dirt out of the opening in the bottom of the back strap.

One of the best things I like about the G20 is the ability to switch calibers with a simple, drop-in barrel swap. In this case, I went with a Lone Wolf 10mm-to-.40 S&W conversion barrel. This allows you to use your standard G20 magazines to fire the cheaper and more readily available .40 S&W cartridge. So far, this combo has been 100% reliable, even when used with the heavy 22# recoil spring. Amazingly, the point of impact is basically the same as the 10mm barrel out to about 50 yards.

The fit and finish of Lone Wolf barrels are very good considering the affordable price. The chambers are tight and well-supported, which helps protect your phalangeal assets when playing with homemade .40 S&W concoctions.

The conventional rifling makes the Lone Wolf barrels more compatible with cast lead bullets for your homegrown reloads. Though Glock recommends you avoid the use of cast lead bullets in the stock barrel, I have found that running 20-30 hardcast lead loads does not cause any substantial leading problems. Therefore, you can easily fill a mag or two with heavy, +200g hardcast loads for woods defense without worrying about it.

Conclusion:

If you are looking at entering the realm of the 10mm Auto, I would recommend you take a serious look at the Glock 20 or it’s little brother the G29. The G20 is also available in “SF” Short Frame format, which makes the grip more comfortable for shooters with smaller hands. Furthermore, the durability and reliability of these guns are hard to match. I have run about 800 rounds of 10mm and another 500 rounds of .40 through this gun so far, ranging from the hot-rod factory loads from DoubleTap Ammo and Buffalo Bore, to more mild loads from PMC and Winchester. It has also worked very well with a wide variety of hand loads; from powder-puff-light .40’s, to sledge-hammer-heavy 10’s. It appears that this is but a drop in the bucket of the lifespan you can expect from this gun. Internally, the components still look new, and it has never failed to process a single piece of ammunition.

I have used this gun primarily as a sidearm for my hunting and backpacking ventures through the remote northern Rockies. It has been pounded by freezing rain and small hailstones at over 10,000 feet, yet shows no signs of wear or oxidation on the finish. It has been a great alternative to a large-frame revolver that can weigh almost twice as much. Despite being such a portable package, it still packs a sizable punch, with 200g @ 1250 fps loads pushing nearly 700 ft/lbs of energy. These ballistics match the hottest .357 Magnum offerings, and even rival some moderate .41 Magnum loads. In other words, if you do your job, it is more than capable of taking down virtually anything in the lower 48. Considering the impressive ballistics, the G20 is a pleasure to shoot, even with full-power loads. If my wallet permits, I can easily fire 200 rounds in a single session without feeling wrecked. I can’t say the same for my snub-nosed .38 Special.

Despite being a relatively obscure cartridge, the 10mm Auto has survived since the 1980’s mainly due to a small but zealous fan base. I have never met anyone that has owned a 10mm who did not absolutely love the cartridge. Whether you are a 1911 lover looking at a Nighthawk Custom, or a revolver fan looking at a S&W M610, there is a 10mm platform for everyone. If you want to read more on 10mm ballistics, check out this post where I tested some full-power loads. I’m sure you will find the results to be both entertaining and impressive.

Happy Shooting!

The Brasstard

Holster Buyers Guide For CC’ers

admin — Wed, 26 May 2010 19:43:14 +0000

Image Courtesy of kcdsTM

With the amazing growth in the issuance of concealed carry permits throughout the United States, many new CC’ers are confronted with the daunting task of choosing a proper holster. Unfortunately, the industry has yet to develop a single holster that will suit all of your needs. Therefore, you can realistically expect to acquire at least two or three holsters for each handgun you carry. This post is intended to be a guide to help you chose the holsters that are right for you and your lifestyle.

Concealed carry methods are dictated heavily by your attire, your physical dimensions, and your daily activities. Keep these factors in mind as you shop around for your holsters. Now lets take a look at some of the common carry methods in a bit more detail…

1) Outside-The-Waistband (OWB)

Image Courtesy of Desantis

In my opinion, carrying OWB is the most secure and comfortable way to carry, plus your draw will likely be much faster than other concealment methods. Above, we have an offering from Desantis called the Thumb Break Mini Slide. This is a high quality holster with great retention (active and passive) to keep your gun secure.

Image Courtesy of Galco

The product above is the Galco Concealable Belt Holster. It is a bit more compact than the Desantis and lacks a retention strap, but comfort is top notch. It is lightweight and compact while still maintaining a solid feel. Quality “pancake” holsters like these will keep your gun high and snug for maximum comfort, concealment, and accessibility.

Image Courtesy of Galco

For all of you revolver buff’s out there, you will find some great options for keeping your wheel gun secure. Above we have the Galco Wheelgunner that keeps even the heaviest steel-frame revolver high and snug on your hip. When choosing an OWB concealment holster, high and snug are your two best friends. If the muzzle rides too low, it could poke out the bottom of your concealment garment, exposing you to the prying public. If the holster does not hold the gun snug on your hip, it will flop around as you move, and can even direct the muzzle into your thigh. Needless to say, these factors are not desirable byproducts of an OWB holster. Do some research and take a hard look at the design before selecting your own.

2) Inside-The-Waistband (IWB)

Image Courtesy of Galco

A good IWB holster can offer a very diverse range of uses, from heavy winter wear to lighter summer dress. There are many options to chose from at varying price points. These range from the tuckable, leather Galco Tuck-N-Go above, to the simple, affordable and effective Uncle Mike’s IWB below.

Image Courtesy of Uncle Mike's

When choosing your IWB holster make sure it allows your gun to ride far enough down in your pants that the gun’s grip does not print excessively through your shirt. However, you don’t want it to ride too low so that you lose the ability to quickly and firmly grasp the weapon. Again, some research and design inspection is necessary to decide what will work best for you. Remember that the IWB holster (or any belt holster for that matter) is only as good as the belt you use to secure it. Choose a belt that is sturdy, durable and is as wide as the holster will allow.

3) Pocket Holsters

Image Courtesy of Desantis

Sometimes, weather calls for little more than a tank top over shorts and flip-flops, leaving no room for concealment of anything but the spare tire around your waist. In these situations, you may decide to not only get a pocket holster, but to also get a pocket pistol to go with it. There is nothing fun about having a 25 oz chunk of metal in your pocket. The Desantis Nemesis above will help you stow that J-frame revolver or mouse gun in a front pocket with minimal printing. It also has a nice outer grip surface that will stick to the inside of your pocket while the inner surface allows the gun to slide out with ease.

Image Courtesy of Galco

If you want something in a more traditional material, the Galco Pocket Protector above is a great option. It has a rigid metal plate in the flap to minimize unwanted flexion, and an internal adjustable metal retention insert around the top rim. Again, there are many options from many companies out there. Take some time to figure out what will work best for you.

4) Shoulder Holsters

Image Courtesy of Galco

If you wear a suit or sport jacket for most of the day, you may want to consider a good shoulder holster. My personal favorite is the Galco Miami Classic above. It is made of high quality leather, is adjustable for a great fit, and comes pre-molded for a number of popular guns. The Miami Classic comfortably holds a full-sized duty pistol along with two standard capacity spare mags. It can also be accessorized with different attachments. This is my number one pick for jobs that require a lot of sitting… such as writing articles about gun stuff.

Image Courtesy of Galco

If you cannot afford the Miami Classic, worry not… Galco also offers the affordable Classic Lite. To reduce manufacturing cost, the Classic Lite is made of a softer suede, and is not molded like the Miami Classic. It includes a single spare magazine holder and a thumb break retention strap similar to the Miami Classic. Sure, the Classic Lite won’t make you look as cool as Don Johnson when he skids across the Miami coastline in the heisted power boat of a dead drug lord. Nonetheless, we are talking about CCW here. And if you are doing it correctly, no one should see the holster anyway.

5) Alternative Carry Options

Aside from the standard holsters we covered above, there is a vast number of other options out there if you need to improvise. These range from CCW-specific purses, jackets, fanny packs, undergarments, ankle rigs, chest rigs, backpacks, and brief cases, all with built-in gun compartments. There are literally thousands of creative ways people have invented to carry concealed firearms, so please forgive me if I forget to mention your favorite trick here.

When choosing an alternative carry method, keep one thing in mind… a gun is only useful if it is in your immediate possession when you need it. Therefore, I strongly recommend you consider carrying your gun on your body rather than packing it in some 3rd party accessory. In other words, you might be better served having a little .32 ACP in your waistband that is secure and ready to go, than a big’ol 10mm Auto in a backpack or purse.

In the end, how and where you carry is a personal choice that only you can make. Take your time with it, and don’t hesitate to try several different options. Have fun and stay safe.

The Brasstard

In Review: “Tactical” Lumen Master Flashlight by Techlite

admin — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 00:16:15 +0000

In the world of “tactical” flashlights, it’s hard to beat the simple, robust and reliable design of Surefire lights. However, the quality you get from a Surefire comes with a steep price tag that many of us find hard to justify. In this review, we will take a look at the value-priced Techlite Lumen Master LED that I recently purchased at Costco. I will compare it side-by-side with one of my favorite Surefire lights, the E2D Executive Defender.

CRITICAL UPDATES POSTED: This post refers to the first generation Lumen Master with the translucent tail switch. Techlite has made major updates in their 2nd Gen lights. You can read all about the new lights here.

At first glance, the Techlite has many similarities in appearance compared to the E2D. However, they are two very different devices. First of all the Surefire above is not using an LED, but instead relies on an incandescent bulb to generate it’s 60 lumen output. Surefire also offers an LED version of the E2D for about $40 extra. The Techlite uses a CREE LED to produce the claimed 160 lumen beam. The difference in perceived luminosity however, is not as extreme as you would think. The Surefire produces a very bright and focused spot beam with very little flood lighting effects. Though it is not an adjustable beam, the incandescent light is crisp, white and defined, making it an excellent blinding device in the dark. The Techlite on the other hand, produces more of a blue colored light that is partitioned with a spot beam and a flood beam. It is also adjustable so you can fine-tune your spot light diameter. Having more flood lighting makes Techlite very useful for utility purposes such as camping or performing repairs. Both lights are plenty bright to cause temporary blindness in an assailant’s vision on a dark night.

The next major difference is their size. The Techlite is significantly larger in all dimensions. However, it is not nearly as robust as the Surefire. The Surefire body, lens, and bezel are thicker than the Techlite. This gives the Surefire more of a feeling of durability without any added bulk. This is something to consider if you plan on carrying the light on a daily basis.

If we look at the activation switches of the two light’s, we see even more differences. The Surefire uses a simple but reliable switch with momentary on/off, and constant on/off capabilities. The Techlite has several additional options built into the switch. One click gives you a low intensity beam that draws less power for extended battery life. Two clicks give you a high intensity beam for full power lighting. And, three clicks give you a strobe effect that can be used to disorient an attacker, or function as a distress beacon in an emergency. It also has momentary on/off like the Surefire. However, I’d like to note that the momentary on/off function on the Techlite is not instantaneous. There is about a 1-second delay, which can be a problem when seconds count. I believe that this multifunction switch can be counterproductive in a “tactical” situation where simplicity seems to work best.

The next major difference is what powers these lights. The Surefire runs on a pair of lithium 123A batteries, and the Techlite uses three AAA’s. The 123A batteries are more expensive, they drain faster with the incandescent bulb (75 min burn time), and the E2D light lacks “constant drain” technology. This means that the light will become less bright as the batteries are used up.

The Techlite Lumen Master LED has “constant drain” technology, meaning that the light output is regulated until the batteries reach a critical low point of drainage at which it just stops working. The Lumen Master battery life is not bad, but not great. You may get an hour or more of continuous use at best. Nonetheless, AAA batteries are cheap, and readily available virtually everywhere. Also, it should be noted that the activation switch does drain the batteries even when the light is off. So, if you leave it sitting for a long time with batteries inside, it will be dead when you get to it. The Surfire does not suffer from this issue.

Another feature the Techlite offers is the low battery indicator. When the batteries reach 20% capacity, a small red LED turns on in the translucent activation switch to let you know it’s time for a swap. Unfortunately, there is one critical problem with the Techlite low battery indicator. When the battery power reaches the critical 20% level and the low battery indicator turns on, the “constant drain” regulator makes it so that the flashlight will not turn on anymore. This happens without warning, leaving you (in an unpredictable instant) without a working light. I believe that the low battery indicator should turn on before the battery fails. This is a major weakness in any “tactical” situation. What is the point of having a low battery indicator if it does not warn you ahead of time?

The final diagnosis…

As I mentioned before, it is hard to beat a Surefire when it comes to durability, reliability, and simplicity… three things that I believe are essential in a “tactical” situation. However, it can be hard to justify spending $100-$150 on a flashlight unless it also doubles as a light saber. The Techlite Lumen Master costs about 1/20 the price of the E2D LED version, but you get what you pay for. My first Lumen Master failed after less than two months of very light use around the house, and the switch tends to be finicky and unreliable; hardly desirable in a defensive “tactical” light. The E2D on the other hand, has been working flawlessly for several years now despite being thoroughly abused.

Both lights are water resistant. Both come with a body attachment; the E2D has an integrated clip, and the Techlight comes with a lanyard. Both are made of high grade aluminum, and both have strike bezel’s on their cap and tail ends.

As much as I like the Techlite and the value it offers, I am not a big fan of the activation switch, or much less the lack of reliability. And, the bulk of the Lumen Master is a bit taxing on my limited pocket space. The Techlite is more complex, less robust, experiences instantaneous battery failures, and suffers a delay in the momentary on/off switch. Regardless of this, I do plan on buying another two pack from Costco because they are a decent value for a utility light. I will put one in my vehicles, my motorcycle, and my tool box… and plan on keeping the battery insert out during storage.

Unfortunately, I cannot recommend the Techlite as a viable alternative to a high-end “tactical” light such as the E2D. It just does not contain the right balance of functional elements that I prefer in a life or death situation. Despite the fact that the Techlite is not a perfect “tactical” lighting solution, it is still pretty useful for such a low price.