The Brasstard » Custom Gun Alterations

In Review: Akuna Brass Catcher (ABC)

admin — Mon, 27 Dec 2010 20:00:10 +0000

If you reload for auto pistol’s, I am certain that you are familiar with the hassles of tracking down your spent brass after it has been launched into the upper edge of the exosphere. This article will take an in-depth look at the latest version of brass catchers from Sherwood Akuna.

The Akuna Brass Catcher (ABC) is attached to the pistol via standard accessory rail, and can be locked into place by (gasp) bending the lower-front bar into the retaining notch.

The brass collection basket is supported by dual, coated metal rods and a tension wire.

The collection basket is made of a coated synthetic mesh, with a detachable collection pouch.

The collector covers both the top and side of the ejection port.

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Performance:

The field testing of the ABC revealed some strengths and some weaknesses. The first thing I noticed about it (before I even set foot on the shooting range) is that the rubberized coating was flaking off all over my hands and my gun. I can’t imagine that the coating will last very long with heavy use if it is coming off from merely installing the unit. As a result of the brittle coating, there were a couple of spots where the metal rod beneath was exposed… and this was right out of the box.

The next issue I had with the Akuna Brass Catcher was the fact that I had to bend the metal bar in order to get it to lock into place on the Weaver rail notch. Over time, tightening and releasing this lock bar will most likely work-harden the metal, causing it to become brittle and break off… sort of like bending a paper clip back and forth until it breaks. On a positive note, the unit attaches pretty firmly even without engaging the lock bar. So, it will stay in place with lighter recoiling target loads even if you do not bend the bar into the retaining notch. However, when I fired some 10mm max loads without the lock bar engaged, the recoil moved the ABC out of position after just a handful of rounds.

The final issue that got to me was the fact that the ABC only caught about 40% of the brass I fired. The rest hit the rim of the basket and fell to the ground at my feet… still better than ending up in the next zip code, which is where my 10mm brass usually ends up.

As it stands, the current level of design and materials do not coincide with the substantial price tag of $80. Ideally, this device would have a frame made of injection-molded polymer, with an easily-engaged lock mechanism, such as those you would find on a tactical light/laser combo. That way we could reduce the weight, bypass the messy rubber coating and questionable lock system, and simultaneously tame the excessively high price tag.

Unfortunately, small businesses have difficulty affording the massive up-front design and tooling costs of injection-molded parts, and instead rely on tedious, hand-fitted wire bending, and baths in mystery rubber. Despite all of it’s shortcomings, this is actually one of the better units currently available. That says a lot about the massive void in the status quo of this niche market.

I can only hope that Mr. Akuna chooses to reinvest his sales earnings into creating a molded unit. He is on the right track with the basics of the design concept, but really needs to address the critical issues above to create an item of value. Until then, the search for the ideal pistol brass catcher treads forth.

For more info, go to http://www.sherwoodakuna.com/

Happy Shootin’

The Brasstard

In Review: The Venerable Glock 20

admin — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 01:20:29 +0000

Part combat sidearm, part mountain gun, the Glock Model 20 is a serious workhorse with vast potential. For many 10mm Auto aficionado’s, it is revered as being one of the best platforms for this hefty cartridge. After spending a considerable amount of time with one by my side, I have little choice but to agree. Lets take a closer look at what makes the G20 such a wonderful and diverse tool…

The large-frame G20 shares controls that will be familiar for any Glock owner. It is a no-nonsense system that is simple, reliable, and easy to operate. Squeezing the 5.5 pound double action trigger deactivates the multiple integrated safety mechanisms and retracts the internal striker. The trigger breaks clean, with minimal over-travel and a reasonably short reset. For a stock double action trigger, the G20 is very conducive of good accuracy. On the subject of accuracy, you would be hard pressed to find an autoloader that handles long-range shooting as well as the G20. With the right loads, you can shoot relatively flat out to about 150 yards. And from a rested position with some hold-over, I was able to hit a torso-sized steel target at 300 yards about 60% of the time. Not too bad for these aging eyes.

The front strap of the 3rd generation G20’s have finger grooves for added grip stability. Some folks say the grips on these big Glocks feel like you are holding a 2×4. You may or may not agree, as this is a matter that is purely subjective. But for my large hands, it feels like it was custom made for me.

The back strap also has a molded-in texture for added traction. It is designed to keep the web of your hand high in relation to the bore axis. This, along with the aggressive grip angle, helps keep the muzzle flip to a minimum by forcing the slide straight back, as opposed to up and away.

The stock sights were one of the first things I had to get rid of. I have never been a big fan of Glock’s proprietary polymer sights, and didn’t even get it home before I removed them. These low-profile Trijicon night sights make for a good balance between the many uses I have for this gun. Glock also offers quality factory night sights as an optional upgrade.

If you are planning on running full-power 10mm loadings through your G20, you should seriously consider using a 22-pound recoil spring instead of the stock 17-pound spring. It helps to keep the breech closed longer during cycling, which gives you more consistent velocities and resists the premature opening of the breech. The spring can be fitted over a nice aftermarket steel or tungsten guide rod for a smooth and silky action.

The standard magazines have a 15-round capacity, and neutered 10-round mags are also available if you happen to live in a rights-restricted state. With 15+1 rounds of brawny 10mm in your hands, you have more firepower than virtually any other auto-loading handgun on the market.

A wide and tapered magazine well makes for fast and easy reloads. This unit has been fitted with a Scherer Slug Plug to help keep dirt out of the opening in the bottom of the back strap.

One of the best things I like about the G20 is the ability to switch calibers with a simple, drop-in barrel swap. In this case, I went with a Lone Wolf 10mm-to-.40 S&W conversion barrel. This allows you to use your standard G20 magazines to fire the cheaper and more readily available .40 S&W cartridge. So far, this combo has been 100% reliable, even when used with the heavy 22# recoil spring. Amazingly, the point of impact is basically the same as the 10mm barrel out to about 50 yards.

The fit and finish of Lone Wolf barrels are very good considering the affordable price. The chambers are tight and well-supported, which helps protect your phalangeal assets when playing with homemade .40 S&W concoctions.

The conventional rifling makes the Lone Wolf barrels more compatible with cast lead bullets for your homegrown reloads. Though Glock recommends you avoid the use of cast lead bullets in the stock barrel, I have found that running 20-30 hardcast lead loads does not cause any substantial leading problems. Therefore, you can easily fill a mag or two with heavy, +200g hardcast loads for woods defense without worrying about it.

Conclusion:

If you are looking at entering the realm of the 10mm Auto, I would recommend you take a serious look at the Glock 20 or it’s little brother the G29. The G20 is also available in “SF” Short Frame format, which makes the grip more comfortable for shooters with smaller hands. Furthermore, the durability and reliability of these guns are hard to match. I have run about 800 rounds of 10mm and another 500 rounds of .40 through this gun so far, ranging from the hot-rod factory loads from DoubleTap Ammo and Buffalo Bore, to more mild loads from PMC and Winchester. It has also worked very well with a wide variety of hand loads; from powder-puff-light .40’s, to sledge-hammer-heavy 10’s. It appears that this is but a drop in the bucket of the lifespan you can expect from this gun. Internally, the components still look new, and it has never failed to process a single piece of ammunition.

I have used this gun primarily as a sidearm for my hunting and backpacking ventures through the remote northern Rockies. It has been pounded by freezing rain and small hailstones at over 10,000 feet, yet shows no signs of wear or oxidation on the finish. It has been a great alternative to a large-frame revolver that can weigh almost twice as much. Despite being such a portable package, it still packs a sizable punch, with 200g @ 1250 fps loads pushing nearly 700 ft/lbs of energy. These ballistics match the hottest .357 Magnum offerings, and even rival some moderate .41 Magnum loads. In other words, if you do your job, it is more than capable of taking down virtually anything in the lower 48. Considering the impressive ballistics, the G20 is a pleasure to shoot, even with full-power loads. If my wallet permits, I can easily fire 200 rounds in a single session without feeling wrecked. I can’t say the same for my snub-nosed .38 Special.

Despite being a relatively obscure cartridge, the 10mm Auto has survived since the 1980’s mainly due to a small but zealous fan base. I have never met anyone that has owned a 10mm who did not absolutely love the cartridge. Whether you are a 1911 lover looking at a Nighthawk Custom, or a revolver fan looking at a S&W M610, there is a 10mm platform for everyone. If you want to read more on 10mm ballistics, check out this post where I tested some full-power loads. I’m sure you will find the results to be both entertaining and impressive.

Happy Shooting!

The Brasstard

Ruger 10/22 Trigger Group Disassembly/Reassembly – Detailed Tutorial & Images

admin — Fri, 26 Mar 2010 22:45:58 +0000

Sharp and detailed images will guide you through the disassembly and reassembly of the Ruger 10/22 trigger group. Use this as a reference to aid you with trigger jobs and/or installing custom parts…

Before you start, make sure that your gun is unloaded and all ammo is removed from the work area. Then, field strip your rifle as shown in these instructions.

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The Tools Required:

A small punch (around 3/32″) to remove the cross-pins
A pair of needle-nose pliers to hold small parts
If available, a small padded vise to hold the trigger housing

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DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

Step 1: Remove the hammer main spring…

With the safety off, hold the top of the hammer with your thumb while you pull the trigger to release the hammer and swing it forward. Caution: Hammer spring under tension. Hold hammer firmly to avoid injury.

Pull the top of the strut to remove the hammer main spring. (Below)

If you wish to remove the spring from the strut, compress the spring with your fingers while you slide the retainer clip off in the direction shown (below). Caution: Don’t let the parts fly away.

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Step 2: Remove the ejector…

Use your punch to push out the cross-pin. Caution: Spring under tension.

Remove the ejector from the trigger housing…

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Step 3: Remove the hammer assembly…

Use your punch to push out the hammer cross-pin.

Remove the hammer assembly from the trigger housing.

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Step 4: Remove the bolt stop/release…

Use your punch to push out the cross-pin.

Pull the plate up and to the rear of the housing to remove.

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Step 5: Remove the trigger/sear assembly…

Use your punch to remove the cross-pin.

… then pull the trigger/sear assembly up and out of the trigger housing.

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Step 6: Remove the trigger return plunger/spring…

Pull the plunger straight out of the hole in the back of the trigger guard and replace the spring if necessary.

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Step 7: Remove the magazine catch/release…

Use your index finger to depress the magazine retainer piston while you pull the mag release lever out of the bottom of the housing. You may need to wiggle the mag release a little to get it out.

Great work! You have successfully stripped down the fire control group to a bare trigger housing.

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ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

Before you begin assembly, make sure you clean and lightly oil all of the parts in the fire control group. Do not leave excess oil on the parts, as it will only serve to attract excess dirt. Replace any of the unwanted or worn parts with new or custom parts and follow the steps below.

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Step 1: Install the magazine catch/release…

Insert the retaining piston and spring into the hole on the front face of the trigger housing.

Use your index finger to depress the piston while you insert the magazine release lever from the bottom of the trigger housing.

Make sure the top portion of the mag release lever is in the correct position in the rear of the piston (below).

Test the function by pressing upwards on the mag release lever. It should depress the piston (below)…

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Step 2: Install the trigger return plunger/spring…

For steps 2 and 3 it helps to clamp the trigger housing vertically so that gravity keeps the trigger return plunger/spring in place.

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Step 3: Install the trigger/sear assembly…

First, piece together the trigger and sear using the cross-pin to hold it all in place. Make sure the spring is in the proper position in its retaining holes.

Carefully remove the cross-pin from the trigger/sear assembly, but don’t let it fall apart (above). Carefully insert the trigger/sear into the top of the trigger housing (below; double arrows) and align it with the correct cross-pin hole (below; single arrow). Insert the cross-pin.

Once it is installed, it should look like this (below)…

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Step 4: Install the bolt stop/release…

Place the bolt stop/release plate into the trigger housing from the top. Make sure the plate is flat against the shooters left side of the housing, and ease it into position so the bottom portion comes through in front of the trigger guard.

Align the cross-pin hole in the bolt stop/release plate with the hole in the trigger housing and insert the cross pin.

Make sure the top, flat part of the bolt stop/release plate aligns with the top of the trigger housing (below).

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Step 5: Install the hammer assembly…

Place the metal bushings into the hammer axis hole, and place the spring in the correct position on the shooters right side of the hammer (below).

Install the hammer assembly into the top of the trigger housing by lifting the rear of the bolt stop/release plate and sliding the hammer bushing under it (below). Align the cross-pin hole on the trigger housing with the hammer axis hole and insert the cross-pin.

Make sure the lower arm of the spring is correctly positioned inside the notch on the bolt stop/release plate (below).

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Step 6: Install the ejector…

Place the ejector into the notch on the top/front of the trigger housing.

Align the ejector’s axis hole with the cross-pin hole and insert the cross-pin.

As you insert the cross-pin, compress the top arm of the spring so that it goes under the cross-pin (below).

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Step 7: Install the hammer main spring and strut assembly…

With the safety off, pull the trigger and manually push the hammer into the forward position.

Insert the hammer main spring assembly into the retaining hole in the lower rear of the trigger housing.

Align the top of the strut with the groove on the back of the hammer.

Use your thumb to retract the hammer back into the cocked position, and engage the safety.

Congratulations! You have completed the fire control group assembly procedure. You may now reinsert it into the receiver. Have fun and stay safe out there with your Ruger 10/22.

The Brasstard

In Review: Glock’s Race Gun, the 9mm G34

admin — Tue, 16 Feb 2010 21:32:45 +0000

I recently had the opportunity to borrow this handy little pistol for a falling plates match at Laguna Seca last weekend. It was one of very few Glock pistols present among the vast sea of precision-tuned 1911’s. When it comes to match shooters, there are some wide variations in personal sentiment regarding the use of Glock’s for competition. Despite the fact that the majority of those opinions are less than favorable, the G34 tends to draw a lot of fascination from even the most skeptical and die-hard 1911 lover. From the get-go, the gun’s performance was very impressive… far superseding my own level of speed and accuracy. I’d like to thank Brasstard user “KPB” for letting me borrow his toy for the event. Now lets take a closer look at this beautiful little piece of competition hardware…

When it comes to competing, it is hard to beat a well-tuned, all-steel, single action 1911 that is chambered in something tame like the 9mm Luger or .38 Super. Unfortunately, most of the 1911’s I saw at the competition cost between $2000-$4000 depending on their configuration. They also feel a lot different to me than the guns I normally carry for self defense, which are all double action only (DAO), or DA/SA combos. Therefore, the G34 made a lot of sense to me as a good “working-class” competitive pistol; being both affordable and feeling more like what I have in my pants when I carry. The specimen here can be had with all of the upgrades for under $1000.

Despite the noble marketing efforts made by Glock, you will likely need to invest a few extra bucks into your new G34 to really achieve “Glock Perfection”. For competition use, you will first need to swap out the 4.5 lb trigger for one with a lighter pull, less take-up, a cleaner break, less over-travel, and a shorter reset.

This was done on our specimen by installing the Glockworkx Complete Fulcrum Trigger Kit that was purchased at glockstore.com (part # T0591-A). This includes a fully adjustable trigger pull down to about 2 – 2.5 lbs… ours was set around 3.5 lbs by the owner, which is a nice compromise between accuracy and safety in a DAO pistol. It also eliminates the notorious miles of creep, take-up, and over-travel we have learned to accept in the stock trigger of our Glock’s. The reset was very short, making you ready to plug the next plate in a heartbeat. The Glockworkx trigger group does it’s job very well, and will quickly make your G34 into a smooth racing machine.

In the image below, you can see the Sure Touch Extended Chrome Slide Release also picked up at glockstore.com (part # T0597). This add-on makes for very fast and easy locking and unlocking of the slide. However, one must use caution if you are not used to this device. It protrudes from the slide more than the stock version, and it gives you a lot more leverage requiring very little effort to operate. As a result, my thumb accidentally nudged it during my 10 and 15 yard relays causing the slide to lock back on me. After I repositioned my upper thumb, the problem went away in the subsequent 20 and 25 yard relays.

The owner also added a nice stainless steel guide rod to smooth out the cycling action and add a little weight to the front end (glockstore.com part #LS005-A). You can also use a tungsten rod if you want even more weight in the gun.

Finally, the owner also added some better sights to make target acquisition faster and easier. The front sight is a fiber optic system from Novak Sights. This came in very handy since the match started just before sunset, and ended in the dark with flood lights illuminating the course. The fiber optic sight works well in a wide variety of lighting conditions, and it helped me stay on target as the sun went away for the day.

The rear sight is a Glock factory-made adjustable system with windage and elevation adjustments for fine tuning your race horse. This sight, combined with the front fiber optic from Novak made for a fast and accurate sight picture throughout the race.

All in all, the G34 is a straight-up Glock to its core. If you like Glock’s, you will love this gun… guaranteed. If you are not a fan of Glock ergonomics, don’t expect the G34 to spark a new romance in you. As with other full-sized Glock’s of the 3rd generation and older, the grips are best suited for folks with larger hands. For me, the bigger the better… my favorite grip being the large-frame G20. As you can see below, the G34 pretty much incorporates itself into my large hands with little effort.

On the other hand, if you are a small-framed person like my wife, you may not find the G34 as pleasing to handle. At 5′2″ and 105 lbs, her tiny hands are dwarfed by the full-size G34. As you can see below, there are gaps and spaces in her grip where parts of her hands should be united. As a result of these observations, the G34 might not be the best choice for folks with small hands.

In the end, I have to say that the G34 was a great all-around performer. If I had to criticize it, I would say that it could use a bit more weight. When your opponents are wielding 40 oz behemoths, the 23 oz G34 can feel a little out of its weight class. I think that a mag well extension, a tungsten guide rod, and maybe a compensator of some sort could go a long way with this gun. However, it was a fantastic performer as is. The accuracy is truly superb, the trigger is clean and quick, and if you use your time wisely, even the 25 yard plates will fall like the Berlin Wall. On his final relay, the owner of the gun, “KPB” knocked down 5 out of 6 plates at 25 yards in under 9 seconds while drawing from a holster. For a non-professional match, this is professional-grade performance from both the weapon and the user.

As for me, the G34 is high on my list of “must have” guns. I have no doubt that one day, one of these will find its way into my own collection. Until then, “KPB” can count me borrowing his race toy with staunch regularity.

Regards,

The Brasstard

Field Strip Your Ruger MKII and MKIII

admin — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 07:22:33 +0000

This video will help you take down this tricky little pistol for cleaning and maintenence. Field strip/disassemble/reassemble the Ruger MKIII/MKII series pistols.

Field Strip Your Ruger 10/22

admin — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 07:12:37 +0000

Here is a little video to help you field strip your Ruger 10/22 rifle.