The Brasstard » .22 Long Rifle

Building Your Own Custom 10/22

admin — Thu, 01 Mar 2012 06:12:29 +0000

I recently decided to breathe some new life into my father’s 30-year-old Ruger 10/22 carbine. This rifle has been with him for as long as I can remember. This is the rifle that I learned to shoot with, and until a few days ago, it was straight-off-the-shelf stock. I thought I would share the build process with folks out there, in case some of you are pondering the potential of pimping-out your plinker. The following post will show you exactly how it’s done.

Before you start dumping hundreds of dollars on aftermarket parts, you ought to consider your overall theme. Do you want a bench rest match gun, a lightweight varmint hunter, a tactical-esque desert fun gun, etc…? In this build, I was going for a lightweight, yet highly accurate target gun for various steel matches, along with the aesthetic qualities of a medium/long-range tactical rifle.

There are four primary areas to consider based on your needs:

Trigger: Reducing the trigger pull alone will cut your group size by at least 30%, even if no other mods are made. You can reduce the trigger pull by buying a simple hammer and spring kit and doing some light stoning of the factory sear. If you really want to burn through some cash, you can get an entire custom trigger group.
Barrel: An aftermarket, match-grade barrel is not essential for every build design. I have seen some great rifles built on the Ruger factory tapered barrel. However, if you are planning on going sub-MOA, plan on shelling out the funds for one.
Stock: There are dozens of styles to choose from depending on your theme. These range from collapsible M4-style stocks, to rubberized poly stocks, to laminated wooden target stocks with thumbholes, etc. Remember to consider your barrel option when selecting a stock; .920 bull barrels won’t fit in a stock made for a factory barrel. Also, consider the barrel bedding options; a heavy, all-steel bull barrel mounted in that light aluminum receiver may need to be bedded rather than free-floated to ensure stability.
Sights/Optics/Mounts: Those cute little factory sights will likely have to be upgraded for virtually any serious custom build. If you are sticking with iron sights only, check out www.tech-sights.com. I put their aperture sights on another 10/22 build, and I just love them. Otherwise, choose a decent piece of glass and some solid mounting hardware. Don’t go too cheap in this area just because it’s going on a .22. Consider the size of your scope’s objective lens and your desired “cheek weld” when choosing the height of your scope rings.

PARTS LIST

Below is the product list for my build. If you like it, go ahead and copy it. I promise I won’t pull an “Apple” and sue you over it.

Volquartsen – Drop-In Hammer Kit
Power-Custom – Titanium Extended Mag Release
Weigand Combat – Tactical Picatinny Scope Base
Tactical Solutions – Fluted Aluminum Threaded .920 Barrel 16.5”
Weaver – 1” Tactical Rings, Includes Torx Wrench
Burris – Rimfire 1” Rifle Scope 3x-9x 40mm
Hogue – Rubber Over-Molded Stock
Volquartsen – Exact-Edge Extractor
Volquartsen – Polyurethane Bolt Buffer

REQUIRED TOOLS FOR THIS BUILD

3/32” Punch for trigger group cross pins
SAE Allen/Hex wrench set for barrel removal and set screws
Small flathead screwdriver for receiver screws
Automotive pick tool or other hard, hooked object to contract the extractor plunger
Needle nose pliers for grabbing small parts
Padded vice to hold rifle and/or trigger housing while working
800-1200 grit sand paper in case barrel needs minor fitting
Triangular or square stoning rod for polishing the sear (optional)
2 small bubble levels for mounting a scope (optional)
Reaming tool for scope rings (optional)

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WARNING: UNLOAD YOUR FIREARM AND REMOVE ALL AMMO FROM THE WORK AREA! READ THIS DISCLAIMER BEFORE YOU BEGIN.

START YOUR BUILD

1) Disassemble your rifle as shown in these instructions.

2) Disassemble your trigger group and hammer strut assembly as shown in these instructions.

3) Clean and lube all parts. Separate and store the old/replaced parts as emergency spares.

STEP 1: Preparing the Trigger Group

1) Install the replacement hammer spring onto the strut. (the large spring)

2) Install the replacement trigger return spring on the strut behind the trigger. (the small spring)

3) Polish the contact surfaces of the sear with a triangular or square armorers stone. CAUTION: When stoning the sear, do not remove any metal or alter the dimensions and cut angles in any way.

The goal is to lightly polish the surfaces to reduce friction at the contact points.

4) Install the new extended magazine release and hammer kit as shown in the reassembly instructions. Make sure you put the hammer bushing spacer rings on the inside, so they are touching the hammer, and then finish reassembling the trigger group as instructed.

STEP 2: Replacing the Barrel

1) Remove the factory barrel by unscrewing the two retaining block screws with a 5/32” hex wrench.

2) Carefully pull the factory barrel out of the receiver.

3) Insert the replacement barrel into the receiver. CAUTION: Do not force the barrel into place. Due to slightly varying tolerances of rifles that have been in production for many decades now, your barrel may need minor fitting. Do not get tempted to take your mallet and try to force it in. Use a small piece of super-fine grit sandpaper and twist away on the outside of the breech end to reduce the circumference a little. Then add a bit of lube and slide it into place.

4) Reinstall the barrel retaining block and screws. Being that the receiver is made of aluminum, try not to over-torque any screws that go into it.

STEP 3: Installing the Optic Mounting Rail

1) Remove the tiny set screws that are used to plug the mounting holes on top of the receiver.

2) Clean and lightly lube the contact surfaces between the receiver and the rail with a silicone gun cloth.

3) Install the mount by aligning the mounting holes with those on the receiver, and insert the included mounting screws. Again, use caution not to over-torque.

Step 4: Installing the Extractor

1) Place the bolt in a vice with the extractor side up.

2) Use an automotive pick/scraper tool or other hooked contrivance to contract the plunger towards the rear of the bolt. *The plunger is the little steel cylinder between the extractor and it’s spring*

3) While holding the plunger back with one hand, use your needle nose pliers to pull the extractor back, up and out.

4) Slowly release the plunger. CAUTION: Be careful not to let the spring send your plunger flying. This kit does not come with a new plunger, and they are very easy to lose.

5) Swap the old spring with the replacement spring, insert and contract the plunger/spring, and install the new extractor. Slowly release the plunger to retain the extractor.

6) Test the range of motion and make sure it is secure by pushing the extractor side-to-side several times.

STEP 5: Reassemble the Rifle Using the New Stock:

1) Follow the reassembly instructions shown here.

2) Make sure you replace the steel bolt stop pin with the polyurethane bolt buffer after installing the bolt into the receiver.

3) Follow the stock manufacturer’s instructions for proper barrel bedding. This Hogue stock has a V-shaped bedding block just ahead of the receiver to provide some harmonic stabilization and structural support. The barrel is tensioned against the bedding block when the stock retaining screw is inserted and torqued.

STEP 6: Mounting the Optics:

Properly mounting a rifle scope is a sizable subject that likely needs its own dedicated mini-post. For that reason, I will not be covering it in detail here. If you need help with mounting your optics, you can simply refer to the wealth that is your search engine. And of course, you may always post your questions below for feedback from fellow users and yours truly.

_______________________________________________________________________

THE FINISHED PRODUCT:

VIRGIN FALLING PLATES MATCH:

Above is a video clip of the new build in action. I am shooting at the right-side set of plates, while my opponent works on the left. This is at 100-yards on the bench. The new build almost made it too easy.

Have fun and play safe,

The Brasstard

Ruger 10/22 Trigger Group Disassembly/Reassembly – Detailed Tutorial & Images

admin — Fri, 26 Mar 2010 22:45:58 +0000

Sharp and detailed images will guide you through the disassembly and reassembly of the Ruger 10/22 trigger group. Use this as a reference to aid you with trigger jobs and/or installing custom parts…

Before you start, make sure that your gun is unloaded and all ammo is removed from the work area. Then, field strip your rifle as shown in these instructions.

…

The Tools Required:

A small punch (around 3/32″) to remove the cross-pins
A pair of needle-nose pliers to hold small parts
If available, a small padded vise to hold the trigger housing

____________________________________________________________________

DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

Step 1: Remove the hammer main spring…

With the safety off, hold the top of the hammer with your thumb while you pull the trigger to release the hammer and swing it forward. Caution: Hammer spring under tension. Hold hammer firmly to avoid injury.

Pull the top of the strut to remove the hammer main spring. (Below)

If you wish to remove the spring from the strut, compress the spring with your fingers while you slide the retainer clip off in the direction shown (below). Caution: Don’t let the parts fly away.

…

Step 2: Remove the ejector…

Use your punch to push out the cross-pin. Caution: Spring under tension.

Remove the ejector from the trigger housing…

…

Step 3: Remove the hammer assembly…

Use your punch to push out the hammer cross-pin.

Remove the hammer assembly from the trigger housing.

…

Step 4: Remove the bolt stop/release…

Use your punch to push out the cross-pin.

Pull the plate up and to the rear of the housing to remove.

…

Step 5: Remove the trigger/sear assembly…

Use your punch to remove the cross-pin.

… then pull the trigger/sear assembly up and out of the trigger housing.

…

Step 6: Remove the trigger return plunger/spring…

Pull the plunger straight out of the hole in the back of the trigger guard and replace the spring if necessary.

…

Step 7: Remove the magazine catch/release…

Use your index finger to depress the magazine retainer piston while you pull the mag release lever out of the bottom of the housing. You may need to wiggle the mag release a little to get it out.

Great work! You have successfully stripped down the fire control group to a bare trigger housing.

___________________________________________________________________

ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

Before you begin assembly, make sure you clean and lightly oil all of the parts in the fire control group. Do not leave excess oil on the parts, as it will only serve to attract excess dirt. Replace any of the unwanted or worn parts with new or custom parts and follow the steps below.

…

Step 1: Install the magazine catch/release…

Insert the retaining piston and spring into the hole on the front face of the trigger housing.

Use your index finger to depress the piston while you insert the magazine release lever from the bottom of the trigger housing.

Make sure the top portion of the mag release lever is in the correct position in the rear of the piston (below).

Test the function by pressing upwards on the mag release lever. It should depress the piston (below)…

…

Step 2: Install the trigger return plunger/spring…

For steps 2 and 3 it helps to clamp the trigger housing vertically so that gravity keeps the trigger return plunger/spring in place.

…

Step 3: Install the trigger/sear assembly…

First, piece together the trigger and sear using the cross-pin to hold it all in place. Make sure the spring is in the proper position in its retaining holes.

Carefully remove the cross-pin from the trigger/sear assembly, but don’t let it fall apart (above). Carefully insert the trigger/sear into the top of the trigger housing (below; double arrows) and align it with the correct cross-pin hole (below; single arrow). Insert the cross-pin.

Once it is installed, it should look like this (below)…

…

Step 4: Install the bolt stop/release…

Place the bolt stop/release plate into the trigger housing from the top. Make sure the plate is flat against the shooters left side of the housing, and ease it into position so the bottom portion comes through in front of the trigger guard.

Align the cross-pin hole in the bolt stop/release plate with the hole in the trigger housing and insert the cross pin.

Make sure the top, flat part of the bolt stop/release plate aligns with the top of the trigger housing (below).

…

Step 5: Install the hammer assembly…

Place the metal bushings into the hammer axis hole, and place the spring in the correct position on the shooters right side of the hammer (below).

Install the hammer assembly into the top of the trigger housing by lifting the rear of the bolt stop/release plate and sliding the hammer bushing under it (below). Align the cross-pin hole on the trigger housing with the hammer axis hole and insert the cross-pin.

Make sure the lower arm of the spring is correctly positioned inside the notch on the bolt stop/release plate (below).

…

Step 6: Install the ejector…

Place the ejector into the notch on the top/front of the trigger housing.

Align the ejector’s axis hole with the cross-pin hole and insert the cross-pin.

As you insert the cross-pin, compress the top arm of the spring so that it goes under the cross-pin (below).

…

Step 7: Install the hammer main spring and strut assembly…

With the safety off, pull the trigger and manually push the hammer into the forward position.

Insert the hammer main spring assembly into the retaining hole in the lower rear of the trigger housing.

Align the top of the strut with the groove on the back of the hammer.

Use your thumb to retract the hammer back into the cocked position, and engage the safety.

Congratulations! You have completed the fire control group assembly procedure. You may now reinsert it into the receiver. Have fun and stay safe out there with your Ruger 10/22.

The Brasstard

In Review: .22 Long Rifle Performance

admin — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 23:28:52 +0000

In this post, we will take a look at what is perhaps the most common caliber on Earth, the rimfire .22 Long Rifle. I wanted to test a few CCI “premium” loads, as well as one of my preferred “bulk pack” loads. We’re also going to see how they compare in rifle vs pistol velocities…

From Left to Right…

Winchester 333/555 – 36g Hollow Point
CCI MiniMag – 36g Hollow Point
CCI Velocitor – 40g Hollow Point
CCI Stinger – 32g Hollow Point

The test medium was a single water-soaked phone book, and the range was 5 yards. The elevation was 5400ft, and the temp was an even 0 C. The test guns were the Sig P226 .22 Classic…

… and the Savage MK II…

I started off with one phone book to see how the tissue damage varies from round-to-round; from pistol to rifle. I fired one of each cartridge through the pistol and one of each through the rifle for eight total shots. On entry…

The Stinger was moving so fast out of the rifle that it expanded instantly on contact. Its wound channel was immense in the first half of the phone book, after which it had lost much of its juice and sputtered out the back. This is essentially a “varmint grenade”, with massive expansion in the first 3″-4″ of the wound channel.

How about on the exit…

The results were not as I had expected. I thought the rifle exits would be much bigger than the pistol exits. However, I believe that this phenomenon is the result of the rifle rounds expanding so rapidly that most of the tissue damage happened in the front half of the book, after which the majority of their energy was diffused. The pistol rounds on the other hand seemed to expand more slowly, causing the wound channel to peak out in the rear half of the book.

I then decided to fire eight more rounds (four each in pistol and rifle) into multiple phone books so I could recover some bullets, and see how they penetrate.

Recovered Bullets: Pistol (Left) and Rifle (Right)

Winchester 333/555

These rounds expanded well… perhaps a bit too well. As you can see, they had the tendency to shed mass from the expanded nose cone, particularly at rifle velocities. Recovered weight was 32.2 grains for the pistol, and 24.9 grains for the rifle. Recovered diameter was .335″ for the pistol, and .254″ for the rifle. The pistol round was recovered half way through the 2nd book, or about +12″ of calibrated gelatin. The rifle round was recovered at the first quarter of the second book, or about +10″ of actual penetration. These are accurate cartridges that run well in a wide variety of guns, and they are hot enough to cycle even the most finicky autos. This is great ammo for all-around use or cheap range fodder.

CCI MiniMag

A lot of people love this load from CCI, and that love is certainly justified. These rounds perform very well through a wide range of velocities. They expand nicely from a pistol (left), and still manage to hold together well from a rifle (right). Recovered weight was 36.3 grains for the pistol, and 36.2 grains for the rifle. Recovered diameter was .344″ for the pistol, and .336″ for the rifle. Both rounds were recovered roughly half way through the 2nd book, or about +12″ of calibrated gelatin. These are accurate, consistent, and hard hitting rounds that deserve their noble reputation.

CCI Velocitor

This is a somewhat newer load from CCI, and it shows some great potential. Just don’t expect consistent expansion from a pistol. The bullet cavity is wide but shallow, and doesn’t appear to be conducive to reduced-velocity expansion. Recovered weight was 39.8 grains for the pistol, and 39.7 grains for the rifle. Recovered diameter was .22″ for the pistol, and .334″ for the rifle. The pistol round was recovered at the far back of the 2nd book, or about +16″ of calibrated gelatin. The rifle round was recovered half way through the second book, or about ~12″ of actual penetration.

CCI Stinger

This little 32g projectile is the fastest and most energetic of the bunch. As you can see, the bullet shows severe deformation coming from the Savage MK II (right). Amazingly, the largest exit wound we saw above was actually not coming from the rifle. It was a Stinger coming from the pistol. Again, this is likely due to extremely rapid deformation at rifle velocities, causing a large but shallow wound. On the other hand, the pistol’s reduced velocity must have hit a sweet spot of expansion in the rear of the book, resulting in the impressive exit.

Recovered weight of the Stinger was 31.6 grains for the pistol, and 18.4 grains for the rifle. Recovered diameter was a generous .370″ for the pistol, and .365″ for the rifle. The pistol round was recovered a quarter of the way through the 2nd book, or about +10″ of calibrated gelatin. The rifle round was recovered in the first few pages of book two, or about +8″ of actual penetration.

A little side note on the Stinger…

I have hunted various small game with these rounds over the years, and I must warn you… if you plan to eat the animal and/or collect and save the pelt, don’t use Stingers (especially inside of 10-15 yards). Even with a pistol, they will virtually destroy small animals. These are great for vermin & pest control against things like rats, pigeons, crows, or feral pets who’s carcasses are of no use. Just remember, the fact that you get a “clean” kill with them does not in any way reflect actual cleanliness.

After testing these four loads, I would have no reservations in recommending any of them. Depending on your intended purpose, you can fill most of your needs between these four choices. For general small game hunting & target practice use, the MiniMag or the 333/555 is a great choice. For serious pest control & extermination use, the Stinger is king. And, if you are limited to using a .22 for defensive purposes, the Velocitor gives you about the most you can squeeze out of this cartridge.

In the end, we have to question our assumptions that rifles are somehow prone to penetrate more than pistols. As we witnessed here, it is not always the case… especially with hollow point ammo in wet mass. In every case in this test, the slower pistol round out-penetrated the faster rifle round. When it comes to HP .22’s, fast bullets stop fast, and slow bullets stop slow.

Chronograph Velocity Results 3-Shot Average @ 10-Feet:

Winchester 333/555 – Pistol=1028 fps/84 fpe… Rifle=1222 fps/119 fpe
CCI MiniMag – Pistol=1017 fps/83 fpe… Rifle=1243 fps/124 fpe
CCI Velocitor – Pistol=1067 fps/101 fpe… Rifle=1357 fps/164 fpe
CCI Stinger – Pistol=1185 fps/100 fpe… Rifle=1570 fps/175 fpe

Happy shootin’…

The Brasstard

In Review: Sig P226 .22 Conversion

admin — Fri, 18 Dec 2009 20:21:06 +0000

With the over-inflated price of ammo these days, it seems that everyone is going back to an old favorite… the .22 Long Rifle. Luckily, there is a whole slew of pre-configured .22 pistols and rifles out there to choose from, as well as optional .22 conversion kits for everything from a Glock to an M1911, and more recently, the Sig Sauer P226/229/228/220.

I picked up this piece exactly one year ago as a Christmas present to myself in 2008. I was searching for a new .22 pistol that felt like a “real gun”. Since I couldn’t find any cheap 9mm ammo in stock anywhere, this thing practically begged me to take it home. I considered a couple of other models before landing on this; the Sig Mosquito and the Walther P22, both of which never really felt quite right to me. But since I already own and use a P239, this 226 kit was perfect to practice with since the ergonomics and controls are basically the same.

My kit came pre-configured with the railed DA/SA frame, slide, barrel, recoil spring/guide, and 2 of the proprietary 10-round mags (I believe that now they only come with 1 mag). It also included a coupon for the purchase of a standard upper assembly in either 9mm, .357 Sig, or .40 S&W for another $400~. The cost for all of this was about $460 + tax.

The Sig .22 conversion includes a finely-machined aluminum slide that is milled from a solid, forged billet… not cast pot metal spam. It also includes a very nice stainless steel match-grade barrel with a recessed crown and an integral ejector. The 10-round mags are made of solid polymer and seem to be holding up quite well. The sights are a basic 3-dot dovetail configuration, with a windage/elevation adjustable rear sight.

On the range, the P226 conversion performs nicely. I have dumped about 6,000 rounds through it this past year and it just keeps chugging along without any major problems. The first thing I noticed is that its very accurate, on par with my Ruger MKIII Target model. Believe it or not, you can achieve sub-2″ groups from the bench at 25 yards using proper form. It is not 100% reliable, but performs well enough to be fun at the range. The occasional failure being inevitable with any semi-auto rimfire, it eats Federal 550 and Winchester 333/555 bulk packs very well. However, it did not like Remington Golden Bullet HP bulk packs. It seems to have a preference towards high velocity ammo with minimal wax/lube on it. It fed CCI MiniMag’s very well for about 50 rounds, then it developed feeding issues because of too much wax buildup on the feed ramp and in the tight chamber. Regardless of your ammo choice, I would recommend you invest in a .22 caliber Boresnake and use it about every 50-100 rounds to keep the chamber clean (no lube/solvent… run a dry Boresnake 2-3 times).

As with any Sig, these kits require a good bit of lube to operate properly. The frame rails and slide rails in particular need a good amount to minimize friction. I use a bit of gun grease there to keep it in place and running smooth. Lubing your rails will also give your Sig a much longer service life. Once your frame rails are worn down, its game over. And if you are like me and enjoy shooting a lot of rounds, it can happen pretty fast. Aside from that, the kit is a piece of cake to field strip and clean… no different than your normally configured Sig.

Overall, I am very pleased with my purchase. It is a bit on the expensive side for a .22, but I think it has already payed itself off in ammo savings. If you figure that cheap 9mm is going for $20/100 rounds, that equals $1,200 for 6,000 rounds. Instead, I fed it bulk packs of .22 at about $20/550 rounds, that comes to about $220… saving me almost $1,000 in ammo expenses. Pricey or not, that is hard to beat. And, when its all said and done, it is still a Sig Sauer; giving you all of the quality and functionality you have grown to expect from the brand.

Field Strip Your Ruger MKII and MKIII

admin — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 07:22:33 +0000

This video will help you take down this tricky little pistol for cleaning and maintenence. Field strip/disassemble/reassemble the Ruger MKIII/MKII series pistols.

Field Strip Your Ruger 10/22

admin — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 07:12:37 +0000

Here is a little video to help you field strip your Ruger 10/22 rifle.