The Brasstard

In Review: “Strelok” Ballistic Calculator App for Android OS

admin — Thu, 03 May 2012 04:50:10 +0000

Images Courtesy of Igor Borisov - "Strelok" Developer

The “Strelok” app by developer Igor Borisov is a free, high-quality ballistic calculator for Android OS that has many noteworthy attributes (the “donate” version is $9.99). This independent review post will take you through the top features and highlights of this excellent marksmanship tool.

Aside from being free, Strelok is an autonomous software package that once installed, does not require an internet connection to provide full functionality. This is nice if you are out in the middle of nowhere and need to use it. Furthermore, as of the date of this post, Strelok does not require invasive permissions, nor does it bombard you with piles of annoying ad’s like other “free” apps do. It only requires read/write permissions to the SD card to store your data. This app is also very resource friendly, meaning that you can use it for many hours in the field without excess drain on your battery from background processes.

Images Courtesy of Igor Borisov - "Strelok" Developer

Strelok is an easy to use and highly functional calculator that processes the relevant ballistic variables, and spits out useful data for making accurate shots. The user interface is simple and easy to navigate. You can build customized weapon profiles that are stored on the SD card for rapid retrieval, and there’s a whole boatload of reticle profiles built into the app (more are added with each update). Despite being a bit rudimentary from a design perspective, the interface is very user friendly and should be easy for non-techies to handle. You simply fill in the information for the variable fields, choose the appropriate reticle, and Strelok does the rest.

Images Courtesy of Igor Borisov - "Strelok" Developer

Some of the other key features include:

Temperature and barometric inputs
Slope angle inputs
Wind direction and speed inputs
Detailed cartridge data inputs
Customizable reticle variables
Graphic ballistic compensation output
Graphic angular data output
Table-based data output
Data output in metric, inches, MOA, MILs, clicks, etc…

Image Courtesy of Igor Borisov - "Strelok" Developer

Strelok is a great tool on the range and in the field. In the future, I expect to see even more reticle options as the developer rolls out subsequent updates. I would also urge them to add a database of ballistic coefficient (B.C.) values for major bullet makes & marks, as well a B.C. estimator/calculator. Currently, you have to get your B.C. values from an external source. Nonetheless, this is by far my favorite ballistic calculator for Android, and one of the friendliest “free” apps on the Google Play store.

Have fun and play safe!

The Brasstard

Building Your Own Custom 10/22

admin — Thu, 01 Mar 2012 06:12:29 +0000

I recently decided to breathe some new life into my father’s 30-year-old Ruger 10/22 carbine. This rifle has been with him for as long as I can remember. This is the rifle that I learned to shoot with, and until a few days ago, it was straight-off-the-shelf stock. I thought I would share the build process with folks out there, in case some of you are pondering the potential of pimping-out your plinker. The following post will show you exactly how it’s done.

Before you start dumping hundreds of dollars on aftermarket parts, you ought to consider your overall theme. Do you want a bench rest match gun, a lightweight varmint hunter, a tactical-esque desert fun gun, etc…? In this build, I was going for a lightweight, yet highly accurate target gun for various steel matches, along with the aesthetic qualities of a medium/long-range tactical rifle.

There are four primary areas to consider based on your needs:

Trigger: Reducing the trigger pull alone will cut your group size by at least 30%, even if no other mods are made. You can reduce the trigger pull by buying a simple hammer and spring kit and doing some light stoning of the factory sear. If you really want to burn through some cash, you can get an entire custom trigger group.
Barrel: An aftermarket, match-grade barrel is not essential for every build design. I have seen some great rifles built on the Ruger factory tapered barrel. However, if you are planning on going sub-MOA, plan on shelling out the funds for one.
Stock: There are dozens of styles to choose from depending on your theme. These range from collapsible M4-style stocks, to rubberized poly stocks, to laminated wooden target stocks with thumbholes, etc. Remember to consider your barrel option when selecting a stock; .920 bull barrels won’t fit in a stock made for a factory barrel. Also, consider the barrel bedding options; a heavy, all-steel bull barrel mounted in that light aluminum receiver may need to be bedded rather than free-floated to ensure stability.
Sights/Optics/Mounts: Those cute little factory sights will likely have to be upgraded for virtually any serious custom build. If you are sticking with iron sights only, check out www.tech-sights.com. I put their aperture sights on another 10/22 build, and I just love them. Otherwise, choose a decent piece of glass and some solid mounting hardware. Don’t go too cheap in this area just because it’s going on a .22. Consider the size of your scope’s objective lens and your desired “cheek weld” when choosing the height of your scope rings.

PARTS LIST

Below is the product list for my build. If you like it, go ahead and copy it. I promise I won’t pull an “Apple” and sue you over it.

Volquartsen – Drop-In Hammer Kit
Power-Custom – Titanium Extended Mag Release
Weigand Combat – Tactical Picatinny Scope Base
Tactical Solutions – Fluted Aluminum Threaded .920 Barrel 16.5”
Weaver – 1” Tactical Rings, Includes Torx Wrench
Burris – Rimfire 1” Rifle Scope 3x-9x 40mm
Hogue – Rubber Over-Molded Stock
Volquartsen – Exact-Edge Extractor
Volquartsen – Polyurethane Bolt Buffer

REQUIRED TOOLS FOR THIS BUILD

3/32” Punch for trigger group cross pins
SAE Allen/Hex wrench set for barrel removal and set screws
Small flathead screwdriver for receiver screws
Automotive pick tool or other hard, hooked object to contract the extractor plunger
Needle nose pliers for grabbing small parts
Padded vice to hold rifle and/or trigger housing while working
800-1200 grit sand paper in case barrel needs minor fitting
Triangular or square stoning rod for polishing the sear (optional)
2 small bubble levels for mounting a scope (optional)
Reaming tool for scope rings (optional)

_____________________________________________________________

WARNING: UNLOAD YOUR FIREARM AND REMOVE ALL AMMO FROM THE WORK AREA! READ THIS DISCLAIMER BEFORE YOU BEGIN.

START YOUR BUILD

1) Disassemble your rifle as shown in these instructions.

2) Disassemble your trigger group and hammer strut assembly as shown in these instructions.

3) Clean and lube all parts. Separate and store the old/replaced parts as emergency spares.

STEP 1: Preparing the Trigger Group

1) Install the replacement hammer spring onto the strut. (the large spring)

2) Install the replacement trigger return spring on the strut behind the trigger. (the small spring)

3) Polish the contact surfaces of the sear with a triangular or square armorers stone. CAUTION: When stoning the sear, do not remove any metal or alter the dimensions and cut angles in any way.

The goal is to lightly polish the surfaces to reduce friction at the contact points.

4) Install the new extended magazine release and hammer kit as shown in the reassembly instructions. Make sure you put the hammer bushing spacer rings on the inside, so they are touching the hammer, and then finish reassembling the trigger group as instructed.

STEP 2: Replacing the Barrel

1) Remove the factory barrel by unscrewing the two retaining block screws with a 5/32” hex wrench.

2) Carefully pull the factory barrel out of the receiver.

3) Insert the replacement barrel into the receiver. CAUTION: Do not force the barrel into place. Due to slightly varying tolerances of rifles that have been in production for many decades now, your barrel may need minor fitting. Do not get tempted to take your mallet and try to force it in. Use a small piece of super-fine grit sandpaper and twist away on the outside of the breech end to reduce the circumference a little. Then add a bit of lube and slide it into place.

4) Reinstall the barrel retaining block and screws. Being that the receiver is made of aluminum, try not to over-torque any screws that go into it.

STEP 3: Installing the Optic Mounting Rail

1) Remove the tiny set screws that are used to plug the mounting holes on top of the receiver.

2) Clean and lightly lube the contact surfaces between the receiver and the rail with a silicone gun cloth.

3) Install the mount by aligning the mounting holes with those on the receiver, and insert the included mounting screws. Again, use caution not to over-torque.

Step 4: Installing the Extractor

1) Place the bolt in a vice with the extractor side up.

2) Use an automotive pick/scraper tool or other hooked contrivance to contract the plunger towards the rear of the bolt. *The plunger is the little steel cylinder between the extractor and it’s spring*

3) While holding the plunger back with one hand, use your needle nose pliers to pull the extractor back, up and out.

4) Slowly release the plunger. CAUTION: Be careful not to let the spring send your plunger flying. This kit does not come with a new plunger, and they are very easy to lose.

5) Swap the old spring with the replacement spring, insert and contract the plunger/spring, and install the new extractor. Slowly release the plunger to retain the extractor.

6) Test the range of motion and make sure it is secure by pushing the extractor side-to-side several times.

STEP 5: Reassemble the Rifle Using the New Stock:

1) Follow the reassembly instructions shown here.

2) Make sure you replace the steel bolt stop pin with the polyurethane bolt buffer after installing the bolt into the receiver.

3) Follow the stock manufacturer’s instructions for proper barrel bedding. This Hogue stock has a V-shaped bedding block just ahead of the receiver to provide some harmonic stabilization and structural support. The barrel is tensioned against the bedding block when the stock retaining screw is inserted and torqued.

STEP 6: Mounting the Optics:

Properly mounting a rifle scope is a sizable subject that likely needs its own dedicated mini-post. For that reason, I will not be covering it in detail here. If you need help with mounting your optics, you can simply refer to the wealth that is your search engine. And of course, you may always post your questions below for feedback from fellow users and yours truly.

_______________________________________________________________________

THE FINISHED PRODUCT:

VIRGIN FALLING PLATES MATCH:

Above is a video clip of the new build in action. I am shooting at the right-side set of plates, while my opponent works on the left. This is at 100-yards on the bench. The new build almost made it too easy.

Have fun and play safe,

The Brasstard

Next Generation Techlite Lumen Master

admin — Wed, 29 Feb 2012 06:27:23 +0000

It appears that the folks at Techlite take customer concerns into serious consideration. Not too long ago, Techlite released a Gen-2 Lumen Master 150-Lumen Tactical Flashlight, and more recently, a 200-Lumen version as well. Techlite addressed some major points of contention that arose from the troubled Gen-1 version. You can read more about those problems in the user comments on this page. In the following post, I will report on my test findings of three of the updated Gen-2 Lumen Master flashlights that I picked up at Costco.

First of all, let’s talk about the things that Techlite upgraded in Generation-2 to improve on the shortcomings of Generation-1.

They fixed the numerous problems caused by the overly-complex circuitry in the old tail switch. The simplified new switch is covered by opaque black rubber and does not have a low battery indicator. It also does not have a voltage threshold; in other words, it does not require a fresh battery level of voltage to operate. You can run the battery down until the light just dims out, rather than stopping abruptly when the voltage threshold has been reached.
The first change also fixed the failure to reset the switch circuit after the low-battery indicator came on. This had caused some lights to permanently stop working after the first set of batteries went dead… even after installing fresh batteries.
The first change also fixed the dormant battery drain issue regarding batteries being consumed when the light is stored with batteries installed. The new switch does not appear to allow any current to flow when the light is turned off. Read on for the burn time results of the Gen-2, 150.
They beefed up the battery retainer. The Gen-2 retainer sports a thicker, higher-quality and more robust plastic that is less prone to cracking when batteries are installed and removed.

Test Results

I tested a 3-pack of Lumen Master 150’s using the standard Duracell Coppertop batteries that were included in the package from Costco. Before testing, I installed the batteries and left the lights in a drawer for 6-weeks. After sitting for a month and a half with the batteries installed, I ran each light through one of the following tests.

[Light 1] High-Beam Burn Time: 129 minutes of total burn time, with notably diminished brightness after 108 minutes.
[Light 2] Low-Beam Burn Time: 236 minutes of total burn time, with notably diminished brightness after 189 minutes.
[Light 3] Abuse Test: For this portion of the test, I subjected one light to the worst form of abuse I could come up with… I gave it to my two-year-old. She has been banging it around for about 2-months now, and it is still alive and still running on the original batteries.

I was amazed at the long run times recorded, especially considering that my Gen-1 Lumen Master’s would not even turn on after 6-weeks of sitting. The 200-Lumen version has similar switch architecture, but will undoubtedly produce a shorter burn time than the 150. These lights produce a bright, well-defined primary beam for visual incapacitation, along with a wide-circumference secondary beam to illuminate your surroundings. Overall, the light beam quality is top-notch.

On a side-note of personal opinion, I would still like to see the activation switch further simplified by only having on/off/momentary. I also wish the 1-second delay of the momentary function was not there. For these reasons, I still find that this light leans more toward sport/utility use than tactical use. I prefer my tactical light to be as simple as possible, and of course, instantaneous.

Overall, these critical updates make the Techlite Lumen Master a real contender in the sport/utility light industry. At $20 for a 3-pack with batteries and lanyards, it certainly is an incredible value that should not be passed up.

In Review: Fiocchi Exacta .223 – 77gr HPBT MatchKing

admin — Tue, 13 Dec 2011 05:03:14 +0000

I was recently approached by an ammo retailer called www.ammoforsale.com, who sent me some Fiocchi Exacta 77gr Sierra MatchKing-HPBT .223 (223MKD) for testing. So, I pulled out the old 90’s model Ruger Ranch rifle, some targets and a chrono and set out to see what this ammo can do. Needless to say, my tough little Ranch Rifle is not known for making dime-sized groups at the length of a football field. Just to keep things in perspective, if I get 3 or 4 MOA, I am usually pretty happy. Furthermore, the twist-rate of the scrawny Ranch Rifle barrel is not really suitable for such a heavy bullet. I usually shoot 55gr – 62gr with decent results. The heavier 77gr bullet in this Fiocchi load would be better suited for a 1:7 twist-rate. However, since I’m not a big .223 guy (sue me), it is all I had laying around for the test.

Here are the results…

Reliability

All rounds fed, fired and ejected flawlessly in my rifle. However, the Mini-14 has yet to fail me with any type of ammo, so it is hard to say how it will work in a more finicky rifle. Nonetheless, the Fiocchi load appears to be well-manufactured and provided good geometric consistency from round to round.

Velocity

My chrono results were averaging around 2,630 FPS with an average 12 FPS spread on either side of that. For match ammo, this is about perfect. The load is not too hot, and the spread is small, which provides good P.O.I. consistency.

Accuracy

The accuracy test was the point where I realized that this load needs a faster twist-rate in order to be judged fairly. My 50-yard rested groups with the Ranch Rifle varied between 2”in – 2.25”in (sigh). I am absolutely positive that this load is capable of far better performance if used in a proper platform. What I wouldn’t do for a decent bolt action .223 with a 1:7 twist-rate and a free-floating heavy barrel at a time like this.

Conclusion

The Fiocchi load provides excellent quality at a reasonable price. How can you ask for more than that? And the folks at www.ammoforsale.com are friendly, well-stocked and ready to serve.

Happy shootin’,

The Brasstard

First Aid: Gunshot Wounds

admin — Mon, 07 Nov 2011 03:50:45 +0000

Most who visit this site are well aware that calling upon the aid of others in a desperate situation can take anywhere from minutes, to hours or days for that aid to arrive. I assume this is perhaps the primary cause of your arrival at this website; you are aware of one simple fact… you alone, are the first line of defense when it comes to the safety of yourself and your family. Just as many of us have trained hard in the defensive arts, we must also be prepared to assess and provide first aid for any unfortunate injuries that may result from an armed confrontation.

The following post will cover the basics of combat trauma first aid; specifically focusing on firearm and bullet shrapnel injuries. Since I am not an EMT or a military medic, I have enlisted the consult of a colleague of mine for medical guidance and editing to ensure accuracy; he is a retired US Air Force Medical Technician who served in the Gulf War (’90-’91) and has treated numerous civilian and military combat casualties throughout his career. He knows his stuff, and now you will too…

Before we get started, we have to be clear about one piece of reality that has been painfully distorted by Hollywood tough guys over the years; if you get shot, you will most likely need immediate medical attention if you are going to survive. Even hits in non-vital areas can result in death by bleeding, infection and/or shock. So the purpose here is not to learn how to play do-it-yourself doctor, but more-so to survive long enough to get to a real doctor.

DISCLAIMER: Perform the following tasks to save a life, and do so at your own risk. As always, Brasstard.com will not assume any liability for your actions.

IMPORTANT: If possible, make sure the scene is secure before treating any casualties. You will be of no assistance to the fallen if you become one of them. Be aware of your surroundings at all times. If possible, call emergency services immediately (before providing first aid) and follow their instructions.

Step One: Injury Assessment

You must determine the location(s) of all entry and exit wounds. Your victim might have sustained multiple hits, and it is crucial to determine which of those will have the most immediate effect on their survival. You will need to have a decent knowledge of human anatomy to be fast and effective in this stressful situation. So study up… know where the vital organs are located and where the major blood vessels are found.

If you have more than one casualty, you must perform Triage in order to decide which to treat first. In its simple form, Triage refers to the sorting of patients into the following three categories…

Those likely to survive regardless of medical care administered
Those likely to expire regardless of medical care administered
Those likely to survive if given immediate medical care

Priority is generally given in the following order, 3 then 2 then 1. Those with major injuries, who are likely to survive with immediate intervention come first. Those with major injuries, who are unlikely to survive come second. And those with only minor, or non-life threatening injuries come last. The US Army and American emergency rooms in general have even more subsections for triage. However, the main three should suffice for providing life-saving first aid in the field.

Step Two: External Bleeding Assessment

You must immediately determine the type and the severity of the bleeding;

Arterial Bleeding: Bright red and spurting bursts of blood that coincide with the heart beat
Venous Bleeding: Dark red, oxygen-depleted blood that flows more evenly
Capillary Bleeding: Dark red and slowly oozing blood or bruising that often clots on its own

Step Three: Control External Bleeding

After you have determined the type and severity of the bleeding, you must take steps to control it.

Isolate body substances by wearing protective gear such as latex gloves, safety glasses and face masks if possible
Apply direct pressure to the site of the bleeding. If direct pressure to the area fails to stop the bleeding, you may have to reach into the wound and pinch the severed vessel with your fingertips, or preferably a hemostat.
If the injury is on an extremity, elevate it to decrease the blood pressure in the injured area. You may also apply pressure to the femoral artery (groin) or the brachial artery (inner bicep) to slow blood loss in the legs or arms respectively.
If the injury includes bone damage, immobilize the extremity by making a field expedient splint to prevent further vascular damage from sharp splintered bone
If available, apply a clotting aid such as Quik-Clot gauze, then wrap with field dressing and continue to apply direct pressure
As a last resort, and only after all other methods have failed, apply a tourniquet to an amputated limb

Pearson Scott Foresman - Undated

IMPORTANT: The general guideline according to the US DOT EMT-Basic National Standard Curriculum is that tourniquets should not be used on anything other than an amputated limb, and only as a last resort. They are designed cut off all circulation to the affected area, and when left in place for extended periods of time will result in severe necrosis of everything beyond the tourniquet. Permanent damage to a limb can occur in as little as 45 minutes. This is why they are not recommended unless all other attempts to control bleeding have failed.

A tourniquet should be at least two inches wide, and be placed about two inches above the injury. It should never be placed directly over a joint, or on any body part other than a limb. Once applied, it should not be removed until the patient reaches a hospital. If a tourniquet is removed in the field, it can cause blood poisoning and lead to septic shock as infected blood is released back into the core of the body. Always document the time the tourniquet was applied, be sure it is applied securely, communicate its location to responders, and make sure it is easily visible at all times.

Step Four: Address Breathing Problems

The disruptive power of small arms can cause serious respiratory damage. One of the most common is the “sucking chest wound”. This occurs when a projectile pierces the chest and results in a partial or complete collapse of one or both lungs. As the patient attempts to breathe, the collapsed lung sucks air in through the wound into the thoracic cavity.

This can be temporarily alleviated by applying a sterile occlusive dressing over the wound and securing it on 3 of the 4 edges and corners with medical tape. This creates a sort of makeshift valve that allows air to exit the cavity without letting more air in. Once the dressing is in place, cover the patient with blankets to alleviate shock and arrange immediate transport to a trauma surgery facility.

Providing first aid for a gunshot wound to the head, neck or face is particularly challenging. This is partly due to the high chances that the injury has obstructed or destroyed the airway. You will not only have to control the external bleeding, you will also have to establish an airway.

You may have to perform an emergency tracheostomy in the field to create an airway. Despite your favorite actor making it look so simple on TV, this is a fast-paced, precision task that can be tricky under extreme stress. The neck is highly vascular, so cutting in the wrong place can lead to profuse bleeding. Also, the cutting is done in layers and should not be too deep as to avoid a complete perforation of the trachea. Furthermore, without a proper trach tube and sterile suction device, makeshift breathing tubes can quickly become clogged by mucus, blood or other fluids. For these reasons, I am not going to cover it in detail here. There are however, some good medical videos on the Internet that show the procedure in detail for the inquiring mind in you.

Step Five: Identify and Assess Internal Bleeding

The most common cause of internal bleeding is blunt force trauma. In the world of firearms, this can happen if you take some fire while wearing Kevlar. The projectile may not penetrate your skin, but you still bear the full force of hundreds or even thousands of ft/lbs of energy striking your body in an instant. Taking a 1-oz lead 12-ga slug at 10 yards while wearing soft body armor is akin to taking a full-swing hit in the chest by a sledge hammer. Needless to say, the results can be devastating if not assessed and treated properly.

For obvious reasons, internal bleeding can be much harder to assess and treat than external bleeding.

Signs and Symptoms

Pain, swelling, tenderness or discoloration of the injured area
Bleeding from mouth, rectum, vagina, or other orifice
Vomiting bright red blood or dark reddish-brown blood
Dark, tarry or bloody stool
Tender, rigid or bloated abdomen

Further Signs that Indicate Possible Shock (Hypoperfusion)

Anxiety, restlessness or other psychological disturbances
Weakness, faintness or dizziness
Excessive or prolonged thirst
Pail, cold and clammy skin
Dropping blood pressure, high heart rate and/or weak pulse
Dilated or slowly-responsive pupils
Nausea and/or vomiting

Treating internal bleeding in the field is near impossible without the right equipment. Even with the right equipment, you are merely buying some extra time to get the patient to a proper medical facility. If the person is in shock, you need to establish and maintain an airway. You may also need to apply positive-pressure ventilation and even high-flow oxygen to enrich what little blood is still flowing properly. The patient will likely need surgery to relieve the pooling of blood in the internal cavities and repair damaged vessels and organs.

Step Six: Treat the Shock (Hypoperfusion)

Your best bet to alleviate internal bleeding symptoms in the field is to treat the shock (hypoperfusion) and keep the patient breathing on their own. Keep the patient from going into shock by doing the following…

Isolate body substances by wearing protective gear such as latex gloves, safety glasses and face masks if possible
Control any external bleeding
Splint any bone injuries (see image below)
Cover the patient to prevent heat loss
Do what you can to keep the patient calm and comfortable while in transit

The bottom line is if you suspect that internal bleeding is present, get to the hospital asap!

Conclusion:

The best thing you can do if you or a loved one is injured by gunfire is to try and keep your cool and avoid panic. If you panic, you will lose your ability to make split second decisions that are crucial for survival. You or your patient will also become more susceptible to lapsing into shock. Keep a clear head and remember your training.

Other References

“Prehospital Emergency Care”, Mistovich, Hafen, Karren, Werman, 2000 Prentice-Hall
http://www.tracheostomy.com/resources/surgery/emergency.htm
http://dirttime.com/?p=1035
http://www.enotes.com/nursing-encyclopedia/tracheotomy
http://www.armystudyguide.com/content/powerpoint/First_Aid_Presentations/triage-2.shtml

Armor Beat-Down

admin — Tue, 01 Nov 2011 05:25:28 +0000

I thought I’d share these pix with you from a recent trip to the public range. These are the 300 yard rifle gong’s after several seasons of hard pounding.

It’s amazing that hard armor plates can be defeated by soft lead given enough velocity and repetition.

Reloading, Simplified

admin — Sun, 04 Sep 2011 03:51:13 +0000

When I first started reloading, I recall feeling a bit overwhelmed by the perceived complexity of the task. Over time, I realized that reloading a modern metallic cartridge is actually quite a simple process, and is only complicated by the vast choices of equipment that we have to choose from. This post is designed to simplify and demystify the process for new reloaders, or those who are considering it in the future. You will find info on everything you need to get you started without overloading you with excessive options and accessories.

WARNING: The information in this post is designed for supplementary use, and is not intended to supersede or replace instructions from your product manufacturer. Always reference the literature provided by your product manufacturer for cartridge and load specs, as well as proper usage of your specific hardware. Always wear eye protection when reloading. And remember, I will assume no liability for your actions, so reload at your own risk.

There are only four elements in contemporary metallic cartridges; the case (brass, etc), the ignition (primer), the propellant (powder), and the projectile (bullet). Therefore, a reloader must merely restore the brass back to its original specs, insert a primer, fill the case with the correct amount of powder, and finally, seat the bullet and crimp the case mouth to hold it all in place.

The process is indeed that simple, and can be performed even with a limited budget. Just keep in mind that there is little room for error, especially when loading “max loads”. So begin with the more forgiving “start loads”, and slowly work your way up to a more robust load that suits your needs. You will need to make sure you are focused on the task at all times by limiting distractions in your environment. Furthermore, if you are not well rested, or you have just thrown back a six-pack of your favorite adult beverage, it would be wise to just go to bed and reload tomorrow.

For the sake of simplicity, let’s assume we are reloading a rimless, straight-walled auto pistol case such as the 10mm Auto (or .40, .45, .380, etc.). You will need to select the proper components for your load according to the recipe of your choosing.

Aside from the cartridge components, you will also need the following hardware:

Reloading Press
Cartridge-specific Die Set
Primer Pocket Cleaner
De-burring Tool
Case Cleaning Device (Tumbler, etc.)
Priming Tool/Attachment
Case Trimmer
Powder Scale
Caliper or Micrometer
Case Lube
Case Holder
Powder Funnel
Bullet Puller
Reloading Manual (Lee, Lyman, etc…)

_________________________________________________________________

STEP 1: Case Preparation

So, you’ve been scrounging brass at the range for months, and now you have a pile of filthy cases. The easiest and most cost-effective way to clean them is to invest in a “vibratory tumbler”. This device uses vibration, combined with a mildly abrasive dry media, such as crushed walnut shells, to clean carbon deposits from the brass. Toss a few hundred pistol cases in an let it run for several hours.

You will be using your press in every one of the following steps, so make sure you choose one that suits your needs. If you are new to reloading, you may wish to start with either a single-stage or a turret press. Progressive presses are great for mass production, but are more complex to operate. The Lee Challenger Breech-Lock Press above is a good starter press, offering solid performance and great value for your dollar.

IMPORTANT: Visually inspect all cartridge cases throughout the reloading process, and discard any that are damaged beyond repair.

After your brass is clean, you will need to remove the old primer and constrict the diameter of the expanded brass to meet the original specs. This is generally performed simultaneously, with a single die that pushes out the primer with a center punch as its perimeter re-sizes the case wall.

If you are using basic steel dies, you should apply some case lube to the upper wall of the case around the mouth. You may also use carbide dies, which do not generally require lube.

SIDENOTE: Glock users may want to check out the Lee Bulge Buster Kit for use with their Factory Crimp Die. This is a great way to remove the bulging base that is caused by the relaxed chamber of a Glock barrel. It works on many straight-walled auto pistol cases. I have used it on my Glock .40, and 10mm cases with excellent results.

Once you have resized your cases and removed the spent primers, you need to use your caliper or micrometer to measure the case length. Make sure they are not longer than the maximum allowable length in the cartridge specs. This is particularly important with rifle brass as the increased chamber pressure can result in significant stretching. Pistol cases are less prone to rapid stretching, but should still be measured for safety.

If the case is longer than the maximum allowable length, you will have to trim it down using a rotary case trimmer.

Next, you need to clean out the gunk in the primer pocket as well as removing any burrs on the case mouth. There are some handy multi-tools such as the example above from Lyman that make this job easier.

Finally, you will need to clean any remaining case lube that might exist. There are many good ways to do this, but I have found that gently sloshing them around in a Tupperware container with a mixture of mild dish soap and water, followed by a thorough rinse is usually enough to remove the lube. Afterward, you can place the cases on a cookie sheet and toss them in the oven at about 200 F for 20 minutes to dry them out.

STEP 2: Priming the Cases

So your cases are all clean, in-spec, and generally purdy… now you are ready to prime. Pistol and rifle primers come in four sizes; small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, and large rifle. Shot shells and modern muzzle loaders generally use #209 primers. So reference your cartridge specs to ensure you have the correct type of primers. There are also “magnum” primers available in all four sizes for magnum loads.

Using either a stand-alone priming tool or a press-mounted version we start installing the primers. This Lee press kit came with a large and small priming device, and many press kits come with some form of priming tool. However, some presses do not include this vital component, and it must be purchased separately. So, make sure your setup includes a priming tool so that your road does not end here.

The primer itself consists of three components; the cup, the priming compound, and the anvil. The compound is ignited when it is crushed between the cup and the anvil by the force of the firing pin.

IMPORTANT: When you seat the primer into the case, you need to apply enough pressure to force the anvil flush with the mouth of the cup. However, too much pressure will crush the cup and could cause the primer to discharge… hence the need for eye protection. Go slow and seat the primer firmly, using arm strength only… do not apply your body weight to the press handle. This step is really a matter of feel, and you will get used to it after a few dozen loads.

Visually inspect all of your installed primers to ensure that they are seated properly.

STEP 3: Expand Case Mouth & Add Powder Charge

The Lee Carbide 4-Piece Pistol Die Set that is being used here comes with a case mouth expander die that also serves as a holder for the powder funnel.

This die will bell-out the mouth of the case ever so slightly so that the bullet can be inserted without shaving the jacket. Other manufacturers offer similar products.

You will also need a sturdy case holder. You can either buy one such as the example above by Frankford Arsenal, or you can make your own by drilling some holes into a flat piece of wood or plastic. This will help you keep filled cases from spilling, and serve as a way to tell which cases have received a powder charge… the empty cases are placed upside down until you add the powder.

You then measure the powder charge on your scale to match the “start load” of your chosen load recipe. You will need a scale that is capable of accuracy down to 1/10 grain for reloading. This RCBS Rangemaster 750 has served me well for some time now. Analog scales are also reliable and accurate, but they tend to be slower than a quality digital scale. Powder tricklers and various mechanical charge dispensers are also available to supplement your scale.

After you have run the expander die and added a powder charge to all of the cases in the case holder, you should always visually inspect them to ensure that you have not added a double charge. Choosing a powder that fills at least half of the case is also very helpful in preventing a double charge.

STEP 4: Bullet Seating and Crimping

Now that the cases are prepped, the primers are seated and the powder charge is installed, you are ready to seat the bullets and crimp the cases. Crimping is the process of forcing the case mouth shut around the bullet. This serves to hold the bullet in place during recoil, and a good crimp can improve accuracy. Many bullet-seating dies also apply a basic crimp by pressing a small inward taper into the case mouth as the bullet is seated. I prefer not to use this built-in crimp for anything but range plinking ammo, as it does not offer the same quality as the separate Factory Crimp Die. It also makes for more work if you happen to seat the bullet too deep (or not deep enough) and need to pull it from the case.

IMPORTANT: Set your bullet-seating die according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Your bullet must be seated deep enough to fit within the maximum cartridge OAL (“overall length”; total length of the entire loaded cartridge) specified in the cartridge specs. The maximum OAL does not vary, and applies to all load recipes in a given cartridge. Staying under maximum OAL is crucial in ensuring that your loads function in guns designed for that cartridge. On the other hand, the minimum cartridge OAL is specified in the load recipe and varies from one load to another.

In simple terms, seat your bullet as close to the minimum OAL as you can without going under.

This minimum OAL is crucial in maintaining safe pressure levels in a given loading. It is always provided with the load recipe, and is highly dependent on the bullet and powder type. Seating the bullet deeper into the case reduces case volume, and will increase chamber pressure upon ignition. Therefore, if you have to go deeper than minimum OAL, you must reduce the powder charge accordingly to compensate for the added pressure. If you are new to this process, then please… DO NOT SEAT BULLETS DEEPER THAN MINIMUM OAL!

After the bullets are seated to the correct OAL, it is time to run them through the crimp die. Adjust your crimp die according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die creates a smooth, steady taper on the case mouth while also acting as a secondary case sizer to smooth out any remaining imperfections in the case wall.

After running all of your loaded rounds through the crimp die, you are ready to head to the range and make some holes in stuff. If you did everything correctly, you will feel a great sense of personal satisfaction and self-sufficiency knowing that the lead you are sending downrange is a result of your own hard work.

The Brasstard

Another Victim of Gun Control

admin — Fri, 29 Apr 2011 03:42:02 +0000

Image Courtesy of Somadjinn

A farmer in the UK was recently threatened with deadly weapons by a group of gypsies that were squatting on her land. She decided to call the police to come deal with the thugs. After taking a whopping 35 minutes to send the first unit to the scene, they did not arrest a single person for the deadly threats. Instead, they interrogated the farm owner for 3-hours over the details of the situation, after which they proceeded to confiscate her lawfully-owned shotgun, stating that “they were given powers to seize guns in her possession and have done so as a sensible precaution in the circumstances” (see link below for source). Furthermore, the police also confiscated her firearms purchase license to prevent her from buying another gun. They did all of this despite the fact that she never even pulled the gun during the entire incident, and she was never charged with any crime. Ironically, many people still don’t understand why gun registration schemes are bad.

Apparently, owning a gun is a greater offense in the eyes of the British police than threatening a woman with knives and chainsaws on her own property. It is puzzling that this nation still has the nerve to insert the word “Great” before it’s title. A truly great nation would not offer police and legislative protection to criminals while throwing decent, tax-paying, law-abiding citizens under the train.

Getting into 10mm Auto?

admin — Mon, 04 Apr 2011 05:22:41 +0000

One Brasstard.com reader recently contacted me with some questions about getting into a new 10mm Auto pistol. He had some great questions about 10mm guns, ammo, and accessories, and I thought it would be worth sharing with others who might be considering a 10mm in the future.

Hello,

First, I want to say that I really appreciate the time you put into your reviews on brasstard.com. ; I just found your website today while searching the internet, and I’ve been reading ever since. Specifically, I’ve been looking at information on the Glock 20 10mm because I am in the process of purchasing one. I was quite excited when I noticed that it seems to be one of your favorite guns. I know there are people that have extreme feelings on both ends of the spectrum concerning the 10mm, but I am definitely a fan.

I’ll be using it to take into the backcountry where I’ll be seeing mostly wolves, coyotes, bear, and the occasional cat. I’m curious as to what type of ammo you recommend for this use. I’m going to get a few different types from DoubleTap, but I wanted to hear more about your experiences before I purchase from them. I’d also like to hear any recommendations for home defense as well as everyday range use ammo as well. I liked your idea about shooting the less expensive .40 S&W cartridge so I’ll probably look at getting that barrel also. Everything in your review basically confirmed the feelings I had on the G20 from doing my own research so I’m glad I read it.

I’ve got so many more questions, but I just wanted to get in touch with you about ammo for the time being, and let you know I appreciate your work.

Thanks again for your reviews and for your help!

T.W.

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Hi There,

Thanks for the kind words of support. I’m glad you are enjoying the site. I think you will be very happy with the G20 and the 10mm cartridge. The G20 will eat pretty much anything you feed it. I have not found it to be picky about ammo types at all. For woods defense, I would go with heavy FMJ or hardcast lead flat points. 200g at 1100-1200 fps will do the trick. Those will penetrate about 4 feet into a charging beast.

For home defense and CCW, I would go with more moderate loadings. I really like the Winchester 175g Silvertip factory load. It is potent, accurate and reliable without being excessive. DoubleTap, Buffalo Bore, and Corbon also make some great defensive ammo in 10mm, but they tend to be loaded hotter. For human predators, you can do just fine with a middle-of-the-road loading. Going too hot will slow down your follow ups and produce a lot of muzzle flash in the dark. I would stick with modern 165-180g JHP loads in the range of 1300-1200 fps (respectively) for self defense against bad people.

I would really recommend you look into reloading for the 10mm. It is a very easy cartridge to reload (being a straignt-walled pistol cartridge), and it gives you lots of options. Even if you don’t do it at first, you may want to save your brass just incase you decide to later. 10mm brass is pretty rare to scrounge at the range, so don’t throw away the goods. Also, the .40 conversion barrels are a great way to shoot more and spend less. Plus, you can use your 10mm mags to shoot .40, and use the 10mm reloading dies to load .40 as well.

Best of luck, and have fun with it.

The Brasstard

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Brasstard,

Hello again, I’ve been looking at a few local places to buy everything I’m looking to get, but I was curious if you know of any reputable businesses online where I can buy most everything I need? Gun, ammo, barrel, recoil spring, etc.?

Also, any thoughts on the G20 vs the G29? I like the idea of the smaller size of the G29, but I’m not sure if that small size will negatively impact my accuracy on follow up shots. My main use will be taking it backpacking and hiking in the woods, and I see you do the same with yours so I’m still leaning toward the G20. I’ll also have it at home, but the my consideration for the small size was in reference to carrying while on foot. I figured I’d ask just to be sure before I buy.

Finally, do you have a newsletter or any monthly email updates?

Keep up the great reviews!

T.W.

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TW,

For the stated purposes, such as woods carry and home defense, I would go with the full-size G20 or G20SF. It is still much easier to carry than the big-bore, steel-frame revolvers that many of us carried for years. Plus, it helps make the hotter loadings easier to handle. If you plan to use it for a daily CCW piece, you may consider the G29. The recoil is not bad by any means, but it is a bit more stout than the G20 with the hot-rod loads, and there is a slight loss in muzzle velocity due to the shorter barrel.

As for buying the gun, I would recommend you first find a reputable, local FFL dealer. You will need one if you order the gun online, and they may be able to get the gun you want direct from their own distributor. You can also check out Gunbroker.com to find new and used guns… just buy from sellers with good ratings. As for ammo, you can get good 10mm factory loads from many online sources. However, I would recommend you seriously consider reloading for 10mm and maybe even .40 S&W if you get a conversion barrel. It will pay for itself quickly, and you can tailor your loads to your liking.

You can get your conversion barrel direct from Lone Wolf, or you can try to find a 3rd party dealer to get a slightly better price. There are other brands who offer conversions as well, but the prices tend to be higher than LW. You can get the 22# recoil spring and steel or tungsten guide rod from places like Glockstore.com, Glockmiester.com, etc…

Beyond that, I would recommend you check out TheHighRoad.org. It is a great gun forum that has helped me out a lot over the years. There is a lot of good info there… just remember to try the search feature before posting new topics. Most folks’ questions have been covered at some point in the past. As for updates from Brasstard.com, you can sign up for an RSS feed at the upper right corner of the site.

Best of luck,

The Brasstard

In Review: .177″ Hunting Pellets

admin — Sat, 19 Feb 2011 00:20:11 +0000

In this post, we will take a look at three high-grade .177″ hunting pellets, and how they perform in wet mass. These include…

Beeman “Crow Magnum”
Gamo “Rocket”
Gamo “Red Fire”

The test gun was a Crosman 2100 Classic pump rifle, and the test medium was a single, water-soaked phone book.

The entry’s above were fired from a distance of 10 feet. The “Shooting Chrony” did not register the tiny projectiles at all. So, I cannot provide you with impact velocities. However, the Crosman 2100 Classic will generally push pellets to 700-750 FPS, depending on the design and weight of the projectile.

Midway through the book, the Red Fire and the Crow Magnum are showing signs of good expansion where the Rocket did not expand.

At the rear of the book, only the Gamo Rocket managed to fully penetrate. Above, you can see how the two Rocket rounds were stopped by the polyethylene backstop. The Red Fire and the Crow Magnum both penetrated through 2/3 of the book before coming to a rest. Since this particular book was a bit thinner than the standard ones I use, I have calculated the following estimates for ballistic gelatin penetration equivalents…

Gamo Red Fire = 4″- 5″ in ordinance gelatin
Beeman Crow Magnum = 4″- 5″ in ordinance gelatin
Gamo Rocket = 6″- 7″ in ordinance gelatin

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Recovered Projectiles

The Red Fire displayed excellent expansion, even at these modest velocities, and was recovered with an average diameter of 0.242″.

The Crow Magnum was the best performer when it comes to expansion with a recovered diameter of 0.251″.

The Rocket did not expand or deform at these velocities. However, the heavy weight of the pellet makes for fantastic penetration for quick kills on small game.

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Conclusion

All three of the pellet designs performed very well. The Red Fire and the Crow Magnum work great on a wide variety of small game, and deliver uniform expansion and energy transfer without over-penetrating. The Rocket is a great choice for slightly larger animals where more penetration is needed… I personally know an entire coop of deceased, over-fed feral pigeons that can attest to that.

Any of the three pellets ought to quickly drop game up to the size of a large crow (at reasonable distances) as long as you do your job as a marksman. Accuracy-wise, all of the pellets shot true through the rifled barrel of the 2100 Classic. The best groups came from the Crow Magnum, but not by much. All were well within the acceptable range of accuracy needed to hit small targets.

Happy Shootin’

The Brasstard