The Brasstard

In Review: Garmin eTrex GPS

admin — Sat, 28 Aug 2010 00:53:16 +0000

For hunters, fishermen and outdoorsmen, navigation to and from our recreation site has become much easier in recent years. As GPS units become cheaper, smaller and more accurate, we have run out of reasons to procrastinate the adoption of this technology into our outfit. The eTrex unit in this review came in a package deal with a Burris Fulfield II rifle scope. Though this exact model is not in production anymore, it is virtually identical to the newer eTrex H, which has a more sensitive receiver with the same basic features. Garmin’s eTrex line is a no-nonsense trail tracker unit designed for ease of use, long battery life and enough navigation features to get you home safely.

The eTrex controls are simple and the entire unit is waterproof rated at IPX7 (1m for 30 min). This means that a quick wade through a shallow river won’t shut it down.

The power button also turns on the display back-light if you are hiking in the dark.

When you first turn the unit on, it takes a few minutes to track your location. You will see the progress on the satellite tracking page above. Once you see “ready to navigate”, you are good to go. Ideally, you will have line-of-sight view with at least four GPS satellites. If not, you can get by on only three with a bit less accuracy.

The next page is the track log, which generates a small “map” of your journey. This unit does not actually contain any real maps that you would normally install via data port. However, it does give you a zoomable visual reference of where you have been so you can easily backtrack to your trail head. You can store 10 track logs, 20 routes, and 500 waypoints.

The compass screen provides an accurate heading and speedometer. Just remember, the unit does not have a real magnetic compass built in, so you have to be moving to get an accurate reading. Additionally, if the unit loses signal, runs out of batteries, or otherwise fails, your compass is gone too. No one ever said that a GPS unit is a replacement for a good old fashioned compass and map. Think of it more as a navigation enhancement accessory to add to your existing orienteering arsenal.

The trip data page allows you to customize the data that is displayed in the five fields. You can select things such as bearing, odometer, ETA, vertical speed, etc.

The menu page is easy to navigate and allows you to setup the eTrex GPS to your own specifications. This is also where the time/date and battery meter is located.

The Garmin eTrex 12-Channel GPS runs on two AA batteries. Garmin claims up to 22 hours of continuous-use battery life according to their website. In my experience, you can realistically expect about 15-17 hours with alkaline batteries depending on how much you use the back light. You can get slightly longer life out of lithium batteries. Nonetheless, this is plenty of juice for day trips, and with a hand full of spare batteries, you could leave it running for an entire weekend.

The eTrex has some cool features built in such as “hunt/fish” which gives you estimates for the best times to find game in that area. This is a somewhat rudimentary estimate as this data can vary greatly from one species to the next. It also gives you sunrise/set and moonrise/set and phase for a given waypoint. You can also use “project” to create a new or future waypoint from your current location.

The “go-to” feature allows you to select any marked waypoint to navigate towards. It gives you bearing and heading markers, speed, ETA, and distance remaining.

Conclusion:

The Garmin eTrex GPS is a decent little entry-level unit for basic outdoor navigation and venture tracking. It is easy to use, lightweight, and affordable. You can expect to pay between $80-100 for one of the eTrex H units online.

The only problem I have had with this unit is that it can be sensitive to how and where you hold it. For example, don’t expect it to work well if you toss it in your pants pocket and hike 12 miles into the back country before checking it. If you lose signal, the unit cannot track your course, so when you regain a decent signal, your tracks will have chunks missing. It seems to work best when you hold it in your palm, away from your body with the screen facing skyward. When I do this, I get perfect reception every time. I am assuming that the newer eTrex H will not have this issue as it is endowed with stronger reception due to improved receiver sensitivity.

I also noticed that the elevation of my waypoints can vary from day to day by as much as 40 ft even when I have at least four satellites to track. So, don’t expect pinpoint accuracy to the nearest inch. It will however, help you find your way back to the car/camp/boat after a long day of fun in the sun.

So, if you are looking for a compact, easy to use GPS unit to toss in your tackle box, take a good look at the Garmin eTrex or eTrex H GPS. If you are like me, you will be pleasantly surprised at just how useful these simple units can be in the field.

Have Fun Out There!

The Brasstard

In Review: The Venerable Glock 20

admin — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 01:20:29 +0000

Part combat sidearm, part mountain gun, the Glock Model 20 is a serious workhorse with vast potential. For many 10mm Auto aficionado’s, it is revered as being one of the best platforms for this hefty cartridge. After spending a considerable amount of time with one by my side, I have little choice but to agree. Lets take a closer look at what makes the G20 such a wonderful and diverse weapon…

The large-frame G20 shares controls that will be familiar for any Glock owner. It is a no-nonsense system that is simple, reliable, and easy to operate. Squeezing the 5.5 pound double action trigger deactivates the multiple integrated safety mechanisms and retracts the internal striker. The trigger breaks clean, with minimal over-travel and a reasonably short reset. For a stock double action trigger, the G20 is very conducive of good accuracy. On the subject of accuracy, you would be hard pressed to find an autoloader that handles long-range shooting as well as the G20. With the right loads, you can shoot relatively flat out to about 150 yards. And from a rested position with some hold-over, I was able to hit a torso-sized steel target at 300 yards about 60% of the time.

The front strap of the 3rd generation G20′s have finger grooves for added grip stability. Some folks say the grips on these big Glocks feel like you are holding a 2×4. You may or may not agree, as this is a matter that is purely subjective. But for my large hands, it feels like it was custom made for me.

The back strap also has a molded-in texture for added traction. It is designed to keep the web of your hand high in relation to the bore axis. This, along with the aggressive grip angle, helps keep the muzzle flip to a minimum by forcing the slide straight back, as opposed to up and away.

The stock sights were one of the first things I had to get rid of. I have never been a fan of Glock’s proprietary sights, and didn’t even get it home before I removed them. These low-profile Trijicon night sights make for a good balance between the many uses I have for this gun.

If you are planning on running full-power 10mm loadings through your G20, you should seriously consider using a 22-pound recoil spring instead of the stock 17-pound spring. It helps to keep the breech closed longer during cycling, which gives you more consistent velocities and resists the premature opening of the breech. The spring can be fitted over a nice aftermarket steel or tungsten guide rod for a smooth and silky action.

The standard magazines have a 15-round capacity, and neutered 10-round mags are also available if you happen to live in a rights-restricted state. With 15+1 rounds of full-power 10mm in your hands, you have more firepower than virtually any other auto-loading handgun on the market.

A wide and tapered magazine well makes for fast and easy reloads. This unit has been fitted with a Scherer Slug Plug to help keep dirt out of the opening in the bottom of the back strap.

One of the best things I like about the G20 is the ability to switch calibers with a simple barrel swap. In this case, I went with a Lone Wolf 10mm-to-.40 S&W conversion barrel. This allows you to use your standard G20 magazines to fire the cheaper and more readily available .40 S&W cartridge. So far, this combo has been 100% reliable when used with the 22# recoil spring. Amazingly, the point of impact is basically the same as the 10mm barrel out to 50 yards.

The fit and finish of Lone Wolf barrels are very good considering the affordable price. The chambers are tight and well-supported, which helps protect your phalangeal assets when playing with homemade .40 S&W concoctions.

The conventional rifling makes the Lone Wolf barrels compatible with cast lead bullets for your homegrown reloads.

Conclusion:

If you are looking at entering the realm of the 10mm Auto, I would recommend you take a serious look at the Glock 20 or it’s little brother the G29. The G20 is also available in “SF” Short Frame format, which makes the grip more comfortable for shooters with smaller hands. Furthermore, the durability and reliability of these guns are hard to match. I have run about 800 rounds through this gun so far, ranging from the hot-rod 10mm loads from DoubleTap Ammo and Buffalo Bore, to more mild loads from PMC and Winchester. It appears that this number is but a drop in the bucket of the lifespan you can expect… Internally, the gun’s components still look new. It has been 100% reliable with all ammo choices using both the 17# stock spring and the 22# high power spring.

I have used this gun primarily as a sidearm for my hunting and backpacking ventures through the remote northern Rockies. It has been pounded by freezing rain and small hailstones at over 10,000 feet, yet shows no signs of wear or oxidation on the finish. It has been a great alternative to a large-frame revolver that can weigh almost twice as much. Despite being such a portable package, it still packs a sizable punch, with 200g @ 1250 fps loads pushing nearly 700 ft/lbs of energy. These ballistics match the hottest .357 Magnum offerings, and even rival some moderate .41 Magnum loads. In other words, if you do your job, it is more than capable of taking down virtually anything in the lower 48. Considering the impressive ballistics, the G20 is a pleasure to shoot, even with full-power loads. If my wallet permits, I can easily fire 200 rounds in a single session without feeling wrecked. I can’t say the same for my snub-nosed .38 Special.

Despite being a relatively obscure cartridge, the 10mm Auto has survived since the 1980′s mainly due to a small but zealous fan base. I have never met anyone that has owned a 10mm who did not absolutely love the cartridge. Whether you are a 1911 lover looking at a Nighthawk Custom, or a revolver fan looking at a S&W M610, there is a 10mm platform for everyone. If you want to read more on 10mm ballistics, check out this post where I tested some full-power loads. I’m sure you will find the results to be both entertaining and impressive.

Happy shooting!

The Brasstard

The Gun Control Mentality

admin — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 18:21:24 +0000

All across America, the air is beginning to fill itself with the buzz of the upcoming election season. Political campaign regiments are attacking the airways with impressive testimonies of “truth” and “change”. As the midterm elections approach, we have many issues of importance to weigh in against our choice of candidates. Of these issues, none tell us as much about a candidate as their stance on gun control. You see, unlike other issues, a politician’s stance on gun control tells us a lot about how they perceive the rest of us in their greater agenda; either as citizen members of equal stature in a mutually beneficial social order, or as mere subjects of a lesser class of society that they intend to rule over.

You see, gun control is not really anti-gun, it’s just anti-your gun. From the Pharaoh’s thugs in the Old Kingdom to the savage KGB, anti-arms rulers have always enjoyed the benefits of armed protection, while simultaneously reaping the rewards of ruling over a weak and defenseless society. Just look at Mayors Daley and Bloomberg, both of whom never leave home without multiple armed guards, yet continue to preach that “guns are bad”. This tactic of social dominion dates all the way back to the slaves of ancient Sumeria, and has carried on through post-classical Europe, imperial China, Soviet Russia, and modern day Mexico to name a few. The fact is there is absolutely nothing “progressive” about gun-control… it’s been done and redone, always yielding the same ill effect for the people.

Ultimately, you can tell a heck of a lot about the intent of an individual based solely on whether or not they want to disarm you. Ironically, many of the same politicians who preach fairness and equality are the same ones attempting to keep all of the guns for themselves. So, when you are weighing in the pros and cons of your candidates this year, don’t forget to use the gun control issue to help you size them up. Even if you are not a gun owner, you should be deeply concerned about anyone telling you that you can’t own and carry a firearm if you so choose. This is a big red warning light, foretelling with brazen certainty of what’s to come.

On that note, happy voting and best regards.

The Brasstard

McDonald vs Chicago: The Supreme Court Rules

admin — Mon, 28 Jun 2010 18:35:59 +0000

The US Supreme Court released their decision on this landmark case today, applying the 2nd Amendment to States and cities. The doors of case law have effectively been opened for waves of new litigation against excessive regional “gun control”. Here are some excerpts from the case docket…

“Chicago enacted its handgun ban to protect its residents “from the loss of property and injury or death from firearms.” See Chicago, Ill., Journal of Proceedings of the City Council, p. 10049 (Mar. 19, 1982). The Chicago petitioners and their amici, however, argue that the handgun ban has left them vulnerable to criminals. Chicago Police Department statistics, we are told, reveal that the City’s handgun murder rate has actually increased since the ban was enacted, and that Chicago residents now face one of the highest murder rates in the country and rates of other violent crimes that exceed the average in comparable cities.”

“In Heller, we held that the Second Amendment protects the right to possess a handgun in the home for the purpose of self-defense. Unless considerations of stare decisis counsel otherwise, a provision of the Bill of Rights that protects a right that is fundamental from an American perspective applies equally to the Federal Government and the States.”

“The provision at issue in this case, §1 of the Fourteenth Amendment, provides, among other things, that a State may not abridge “the privileges or immunities of citizens of the United States” or deprive “any person of life, liberty, or property, without due process of law.”

The majority opinion describes in-depth the historical upbringings of “gun control” and it’s discriminatory and racist roots. Of the dissenters, Justice Stevens felt that this decision would undermine a vast portion of past decisions, and Justice Breyer had apparently been living on Mars when he concluded that “there is no popular consensus that the right is fundamental”. Ironically, these two judges were born in two of the most anti-gun cities in America; Chicago and San Francisco respectively.

Here is a link to the case docket from which I derived the above quotes…

McDonald vs Chicago

Ka-Bar’s Khukuri “Kukri” Machete

admin — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 22:48:13 +0000

Ka-Bar is well known for making useful, durable and affordable blades. Their fighting knives are good enough for the US armed forces, and their Khukuri “Kukri” machete is no less a solid and serviceable product. If you are in the market for a great Khukuri but lack the funds for a top-end brand such a Himalayan Imports Khukuri, give the Ka-Bar a good look.

The Pros:

The Taiwanese-built 11.5″ blade is made from uniform 1085 carbon steel, and is cut with a 20-degree hollow grind making it a breeze to sharpen. At 1.7 lbs, it is heavy enough for serious chopping duty, and is very well-balanced. The blade is also coated with a non-reflective finish that is both durable, and does a good job at retaining lubricant. The Kraton-G handle has a good-sized tang, and is very durable and weather resistant.

The Cons:

The hollow grind is a point of contention for me. On one hand, it makes the knife easy to sharpen and can be made very sharp with relatively little effort. On the other hand, the lack of edge support makes the edge somewhat weak. In other words, with rough use it will not stay sharp for very long. I believe that for a working knife, it is best to have a convex grind, or at least a flat grind to provide better support for the blade while chopping hard materials. Also, the Kraton-G handle could use a rougher texture for better grip. It can get a bit slippery when you sweat. And of course, the cheap-o sheath (though it serves it’s purpose) leaves much to be desired.

Regardless of some of the weaknesses, it is hard to beat the Ka-Bar Khukuri “Kukri” machete at this price point. It is a great tool for general utility use. And if all else fails, it would make a formidable weapon. With a freshly sharpened blade, a solid strike with the “sweet spot” would easily sever a limb or deliver other devastating mortal trauma to a would-be attacker. In this respect, the Khukuri design is not a true machete. It is derived from ancient battlefield weapons that were built to kill. Therefore, it may not the best choice for clearing your way through a dense jungle. It is made for lopping off limbs… be it the limbs of a tree, or a man. And in that task, it works like a charm. Ka-Bar Knives

The Brasstard

In Review: Gamo Rocket Pellets

admin — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 21:42:37 +0000

The Gamo Rocket pellet is likely to impress even the most demanding hunter. The unique design of the BB-integrated hollow point, and the sheer down-range power of the Rocket makes for a very useful and diverse pellet.

This relatively heavy .177 caliber (4.5 mm) 9.6 grain projectile is designed to expand by forcing the BB into the hollow cavity on impact. The added weight makes for a significant increase in retained energy at longer distances, and makes it less susceptible to excessive effects of crosswinds.

I tested this ammo in a Crosman 2100 Classic, which only produces about 700 fps at the muzzle. Nonetheless, it produced some amazing real-world results on small game in comparison to other hunting pellets. The first thing I noticed is that it is very accurate, and 25-yard rested groups were about 1.5″ with open sights. The second thing I noticed is that the Gamo Rocket packs a mean punch.

Some time ago, I was suffering from a pigeon infestation in my carport. I needed a humane way of eliminating the pests quickly without using poisons or traps. After taking the first few birds with standard all-lead pellets, I realized the need for more punch as they all required multiple hits before the bird expired. This is when I decided to try a batch of Gamo Rocket pellets on the fat little squatters. Every single subsequent bird expired quickly with only one shot using the Rocket pellets… and I was taking them from a considerable distance of 15-30 yards. I could see and hear the difference immediately… the sound was a solid thud, and the lights go out… one painless ticket to pigeon heaven.

I also tested these on some wet phone books to see how they expand and penetrate. Unfortunately, the 700 fps muzzle velocity of the 2100 Classic is not enough to fully expand the Rocket. I am betting that another 200 fps would do the trick as several of the pellets began to show signs of preliminary expansion. Penetration was very good, with all rounds passing at least half of a phone book. This equates to about 5″-6″ in ballistic gelatin.

Overall, the Gamo Rocket pellet is an excellent choice for any small game hunting or pest control application.

Gamo Rocket Official Site

Happy Hunting! The Brasstard

Holster Buyers Guide For CC’ers

admin — Wed, 26 May 2010 19:43:14 +0000

Image Courtesy of kcdsTM

With the amazing growth in the issuance of concealed carry permits throughout the United States, many new CC’ers are confronted with the daunting task of choosing a proper holster. Unfortunately, the industry has yet to develop a single holster that will suit all of your needs. Therefore, you can realistically expect to acquire at least two or three holsters for each handgun you carry. This post is intended to be a guide to help you chose the holsters that are right for you and your lifestyle.

Concealed carry methods are dictated heavily by your attire, your physical dimensions, and your daily activities. Keep these factors in mind as you shop around for your holsters. Now lets take a look at some of the common carry methods in a bit more detail…

1) Outside-The-Waistband (OWB)

Image Courtesy of Desantis

In my opinion, carrying OWB is the most secure and comfortable way to carry, plus your draw will likely be much faster than other concealment methods. Above, we have an offering from Desantis called the Thumb Break Mini Slide. This is a high quality holster with great retention (active and passive) to keep your gun secure.

Image Courtesy of Galco

The product above is the Galco Concealable Belt Holster. It is a bit more compact than the Desantis and lacks a retention strap, but comfort is top notch. It is lightweight and compact while still maintaining a solid feel. Quality “pancake” holsters like these will keep your gun high and snug for maximum comfort, concealment, and accessibility.

Image Courtesy of Galco

For all of you revolver buff’s out there, you will find some great options for keeping your wheel gun secure. Above we have the Galco Wheelgunner that keeps even the heaviest steel-frame revolver high and snug on your hip. When choosing an OWB concealment holster, high and snug are your two best friends. If the muzzle rides too low, it could poke out the bottom of your concealment garment, exposing you to the prying public. If the holster does not hold the gun snug on your hip, it will flop around as you move, and can even direct the muzzle into your thigh. Needless to say, these factors are not desirable byproducts of an OWB holster. Do some research and take a hard look at the design before selecting your own.

2) Inside-The-Waistband (IWB)

Image Courtesy of Galco

A good IWB holster can offer a very diverse range of uses, from heavy winter wear to lighter summer dress. There are many options to chose from at varying price points. These range from the tuckable, leather Galco Tuck-N-Go above, to the simple, affordable and effective Uncle Mike’s IWB below.

Image Courtesy of Uncle Mike's

When choosing your IWB holster make sure it allows your gun to ride far enough down in your pants that the gun’s grip does not print excessively through your shirt. However, you don’t want it to ride too low so that you lose the ability to quickly and firmly grasp the weapon. Again, some research and design inspection is necessary to decide what will work best for you. Remember that the IWB holster (or any belt holster for that matter) is only as good as the belt you use to secure it. Choose a belt that is sturdy, durable and is as wide as the holster will allow.

3) Pocket Holsters

Image Courtesy of Desantis

Sometimes, weather calls for little more than a tank top over shorts and flip-flops, leaving no room for concealment of anything but the spare tire around your waist. In these situations, you may decide to not only get a pocket holster, but to also get a pocket pistol to go with it. There is nothing fun about having a 25 oz chunk of metal in your pocket. The Desantis Nemesis above will help you stow that J-frame revolver or mouse gun in a front pocket with minimal printing. It also has a nice outer grip surface that will stick to the inside of your pocket while the inner surface allows the gun to slide out with ease.

Image Courtesy of Galco

If you want something in a more traditional material, the Galco Pocket Protector above is a great option. It has a rigid metal plate in the flap to minimize unwanted flexion, and an internal adjustable metal retention insert around the top rim. Again, there are many options from many companies out there. Take some time to figure out what will work best for you.

4) Shoulder Holsters

Image Courtesy of Galco

If you wear a suit or sport jacket for most of the day, you may want to consider a good shoulder holster. My personal favorite is the Galco Miami Classic above. It is made of high quality leather, is adjustable for a great fit, and comes pre-molded for a number of popular guns. The Miami Classic comfortably holds a full-sized duty pistol along with two standard capacity spare mags. It can also be accessorized with different attachments. This is my number one pick for jobs that require a lot of sitting… such as writing articles about gun stuff.

Image Courtesy of Galco

If you cannot afford the Miami Classic, worry not… Galco also offers the affordable Classic Lite. To reduce manufacturing cost, the Classic Lite is made of a softer suede, and is not molded like the Miami Classic. It includes a single spare magazine holder and a thumb break retention strap similar to the Miami Classic. Sure, the Classic Lite won’t make you look as cool as Don Johnson when he skids across the Miami coastline in the heisted power boat of a dead drug lord. Nonetheless, we are talking about CCW here. And if you are doing it correctly, no one should see the holster anyway.

5) Alternative Carry Options

Aside from the standard holsters we covered above, there is a vast number of other options out there if you need to improvise. These range from CCW-specific purses, jackets, fanny packs, undergarments, ankle rigs, chest rigs, backpacks, and brief cases, all with built-in gun compartments. There are literally thousands of creative ways people have invented to carry concealed firearms, so please forgive me if I forget to mention your favorite trick here.

When choosing an alternative carry method, keep one thing in mind… a gun is only useful if it is in your immediate possession when you need it. Therefore, I strongly recommend you consider carrying your gun on your body rather than packing it in some 3rd party accessory. In other words, you might be better served having a little .32 ACP in your waistband that is secure and ready to go, than a big’ol 10mm Auto in a backpack or purse.

In the end, how and where you carry is a personal choice that only you can make. Take your time with it, and don’t hesitate to try several different options. Have fun and stay safe.

The Brasstard

Crime Rate in the USA Continues to Drop

admin — Tue, 25 May 2010 18:03:42 +0000

As you may have heard, the FBI recently released the preliminary semi-annual crime report for Jan-June 2009. Once again, crime in America is on the decline… despite the fact that 2009 was a record year for the gun industry. Now, I realize that there are many variables besides gun ownership that determine national/regional crime rates. So, I will avoid trying to give gun owners all of the credit for making our country safer. However, with “gun control” advocates constantly insisting that more guns in the hands of citizens equates more violent crime, the contradictory evidence is quite pleasing.

Aside from being a record year for gun and ammo sales, 2009 was also a record year for new CCW/CFP permits; with most shall-issue states seeing a sizable increase in new permits granted compared to 2008. Again, in direct contradiction to the claims of the mainstream media and other anti-gun entities, the streets did not run red with the blood of babies.

Here is a link to the FBI website for more info… FBI Preliminary Crime Report JAN-JUNE 2009

In Review: “Tactical” Lumen Master Flashlight by Techlite

admin — Wed, 14 Apr 2010 00:16:15 +0000

In the world of “tactical” flashlights, it’s hard to beat the simple, robust and reliable design of Surefire lights. However, the quality you get from a Surefire comes with a steep price tag that many of us find hard to justify. Luckily, there are now many lower priced alternatives that offer great performance and value at a fraction of the price. In this review, we will take a look at the Techlite Lumen Master LED that I recently purchased at Costco for an amazing $15 a pair (after instant $5 rebate). I will compare it side-by-side with one of my favorite Surefire lights, the E2D Executive Defender.

At first glance, the Techlite has many similarities in appearance compared to the E2D. However, they are two very different devices. First of all the Surefire above is not using an LED, but instead relies on an incandescent bulb to generate it’s 60 lumen output. Surefire also offers an LED version of the E2D for about $40 extra. The Techlite uses a CREE LED to produce the claimed 160 lumen beam. The difference in perceived luminosity however, is not as extreme as you would think. The Surefire produces a very bright and focused spot beam with very little flood lighting effects. Though it is not an adjustable beam, the incandescent light is crisp, white and defined, making it an excellent blinding device in the dark. The Techlite on the other hand, produces more of a blue colored light that is partitioned with a spot beam and a flood beam. It is also adjustable so you can fine-tune your spot light diameter. Having more flood lighting makes Techlite very useful for utility purposes such as camping or performing repairs. Both lights are plenty bright to cause temporary blindness in an assailant’s vision on a dark night.

The next major difference is their size. The Techlite is significantly larger in all dimensions. However, it is not nearly as robust as the Surefire. The Surefire body, lens, and bezel are thicker than the Techlite. This gives the Surefire more of a feeling of durability without any added bulk. This is something to consider if you plan on carrying the light on a daily basis.

If we look at the activation switches of the two light’s, we see even more differences. The Surefire uses a simple but reliable switch with momentary on/off, and constant on/off capabilities. The Techlite has several additional options built into the switch. One click gives you a low intensity beam that draws less power for extended battery life. Two clicks give you a high intensity beam for full power lighting. And, three clicks give you a strobe effect that can be used to disorient an attacker, or function as a distress beacon in an emergency. It also has momentary on/off like the Surefire. However, I’d like to note that the momentary on/off function on the Techlite is not instantaneous. There is about a 1 second delay, which can be a problem when seconds count. I believe that this multifunction switch can be counterproductive in a “tactical” situation where simplicity seems to work best.

The next major difference is what powers these lights. The Surefire runs on a pair of lithium 123A batteries, and the Techlite uses three AAA’s. The 123A batteries are more expensive, they drain faster with the incandescent bulb (75 min burn time), and the E2D light lacks “constant drain” technology. This means that the light will become less bright as the batteries are used up.

The Techlite Lumen Master LED has “constant drain” technology, meaning that the light output is relatively uniform until the batteries reach a critical low point of drainage. The Lumen Master battery life seems to be a little bit longer than the incandescent E2D in high drain mode. However, it is not a lengthy battery life deserving of any special mention. Nonetheless, AAA batteries are cheap, and readily available virtually everywhere.

Another feature the Techlite offers is the low battery indicator. When the batteries reach 20% capacity, a small red LED turns on in the translucent activation switch to let you know it’s time for a swap. Unfortunately, there is one critical problem with the Techlite low battery indicator. When the battery power reaches the critical 20% level and the low battery indicator turns on, the “constant drain” regulator makes it so that the flashlight will not turn on anymore. This happens without warning, leaving you (in an unpredictable instant) without a working light. I believe that the low battery indicator should turn on before the battery fails. This is a major weakness in any “tactical” situation. What is the point of having a low battery indicator if it does not warn you ahead of time?

The final diagnosis…

As I mentioned before, it is hard to beat a Surefire when it comes to durability, reliability, and simplicity… three things that I believe are essential in a “tactical” situation. However, it can be hard to justify spending $100-$150 on a flashlight unless it also doubles as a light saber. The Techlite Lumen Master costs about 1/20 the price of the E2D LED version, and so far it functions as advertised. Both lights are water resistant, and I have washed them both under a running tap. Both come with a body attachment; the E2D has an integrated clip, and the Techlight comes with a lanyard. Both are made of high grade aluminum, and both have strike bezel’s on their cap and tail ends.

Does this mean I am dumping my E2D and carrying it’s cheap Chinese counterpart? No way. As much as I like the Techlite and the value it offers, I am not a big fan of the activation switch. And, the bulk of the Lumen Master is a bit taxing on my limited pocket space. The Techlite is more complex, less robust, experiences instantaneous battery failures, and suffers a delay in the momentary on/off switch. Regardless of this, I do plan on buying another two pack from Costco because they are an amazing value for a very good utility light. I will put one in my vehicles, my motorcycle, and my tool box. Unfortunately, I cannot recommend the Techlite as a viable alternative to a high-end “tactical” light. It just does not contain the right balance of functional elements that I prefer in a life or death situation. Despite the fact that the Techlite is not a perfect “tactical” lighting solution, it is still the best $7.50 I could have ever imagined spending on a modern LED flashlight.

Ruger 10/22 Fire Control Group Assembly

admin — Fri, 26 Mar 2010 22:45:58 +0000

The Ruger 10/22 is one of the most popular rimfire rifles on the market. However, as much as we all love it, there is always room for improvement. This tutorial gives you step-by-step instructions with sharp and detailed images to guide you through the disassembly and reassembly of the fire control group. Use this as a reference to aid you with trigger jobs and installing custom parts…

Before you start, make sure that your gun is unloaded and all ammo is removed from the work area. Then, field strip your rifle as shown in these instructions. Also, you will need a small punch (around 3/32″) to remove the cross-pins, a pair of needle-nose pliers to hold small parts, and I would recommend you use a small vise to hold the trigger housing so you can free your hands.

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DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

Step 1: Remove the hammer main spring…

With the safety off, hold the top of the hammer with your thumb while you pull the trigger to release the hammer and swing it forward. Caution: Hammer spring under tension. Hold firmly to avoid injury.

Pull the top of the spring strut to remove the hammer main spring.

If you wish to remove the spring from the strut, compress the spring with your fingers while you slide the retainer clip off in the direction shown (below). Caution: Don’t let the parts fly away.

Step 2: Remove the ejector…

Use your punch to push out the cross-pin. Caution: Spring under tension.

Remove the ejector from the trigger housing…

Step 3: Remove the hammer assembly…

Use your punch to push out the hammer cross-pin.

Remove the hammer assembly from the trigger housing.

Step 4: Remove the bolt stop/release…

Use your punch to push out the cross-pin.

Pull the plate up and to the rear of the housing to remove.

Step 5: Remove the trigger/sear assembly…

Use your punch to remove the cross-pin.

… then pull the trigger/sear assembly up and out of the trigger housing.

Step 6: Remove the trigger return plunger/spring…

Pull the plunger straight out of the hole in the back of the trigger guard and replace the spring if necessary.

Step 7: Remove the magazine catch/release…

Use your index finger to depress the magazine retainer piston while you pull the mag release lever out of the bottom of the housing. You may need to wiggle the mag release a little to get it out.

Great work! You have successfully stripped down the fire control group to a bare trigger housing.

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ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

Before you begin assembly, make sure you clean and lightly oil all of the parts in the fire control group. Do not leave excess oil on the parts, as it will only serve to attract excess dirt. Replace any of the unwanted or worn parts with new or custom parts and follow the steps below.

Step 1: Install the magazine catch/release…

Insert the retaining piston and spring into the hole on the front face of the trigger housing.

Use your index finger to depress the piston while you insert the magazine release lever from the bottom of the trigger housing.

Make sure the top portion of the mag release lever is in the correct position in the rear of the piston (below).

Test the function by pressing upwards on the mag release lever. It should depress the piston (below)…

Step 2: Install the trigger return plunger/spring…

For steps 2 and 3 it helps to clamp the trigger housing vertically so that gravity keeps the trigger return plunger/spring in place.

Step 3: Install the trigger/sear assembly…

First, piece together the trigger and sear using the cross-pin to hold it all in place. Make sure the spring is in the proper position in its retaining holes.

Carefully remove the cross-pin from the trigger/sear assembly, but don’t let it fall apart (above). Carefully insert the trigger/sear into the top of the trigger housing (below; double arrows) and align it with the correct cross-pin hole (below; single arrow). Insert the cross-pin.

Once it is installed, it should look like this (below)…

Step 4: Install the bolt stop/release…

Place the bolt stop/release plate into the trigger housing from the top. Make sure the plate is flat against the shooters left side of the housing, and ease it into position so the bottom portion comes through in front of the trigger guard.

Align the cross-pin hole in the bolt stop/release plate with the hole in the trigger housing and insert the cross pin.

Make sure the top, flat part of the bolt stop/release plate aligns with the top of the trigger housing (below).

Step 5: Install the hammer assembly…

Place the metal bushings into the hammer axis hole, and place the spring in the correct position on the shooters right side of the hammer (below).

Install the hammer assembly into the top of the trigger housing by lifting the rear of the bolt stop/release plate and sliding the hammer bushing under it (below). Align the cross-pin hole on the trigger housing with the hammer axis hole and insert the cross-pin.

Make sure the lower arm of the spring is correctly positioned inside the notch on the bolt stop/release plate (below).

Step 6: Install the ejector…

Place the ejector into the notch on the top/front of the trigger housing.

Align the ejector’s axis hole with the cross-pin hole and insert the cross-pin.

As you insert the cross-pin, compress the top arm of the spring so that it goes under the cross-pin (below).

Step 7: Install the hammer main spring and strut assembly…

With the safety off, pull the trigger and manually push the hammer into the forward position.

Insert the hammer main spring assembly into the retaining hole in the lower rear of the trigger housing.

Align the top of the strut with the groove on the back of the hammer.

Use your thumb to retract the hammer back into the cocked position, and engage the safety.

Congratulations! You have completed the fire control group assembly procedure. You may now reinsert it into the receiver. Have fun and stay safe out there with your Ruger 10/22.

The Brasstard