The Brasstard » “How-To” Tutorials

First Aid: Gunshot Wounds

admin — Mon, 07 Nov 2011 03:50:45 +0000

Most who visit this site are well aware that calling upon the aid of others in a desperate situation can take anywhere from minutes, to hours or days for that aid to arrive. I assume this is perhaps the primary cause of your arrival at this website; you are aware of one simple fact… you alone, are the first line of defense when it comes to the safety of yourself and your family. Just as many of us have trained hard in the defensive arts, we must also be prepared to assess and provide first aid for any unfortunate injuries that may result from an armed confrontation.

The following post will cover the basics of combat trauma first aid; specifically focusing on firearm and bullet shrapnel injuries. Since I am not an EMT or a military medic, I have enlisted the consult of a colleague of mine for medical guidance and editing to ensure accuracy; he is a retired US Air Force Medical Technician who served in the Gulf War (’90-’91) and has treated numerous civilian and military combat casualties throughout his career. He knows his stuff, and now you will too…

Before we get started, we have to be clear about one piece of reality that has been painfully distorted by Hollywood tough guys over the years; if you get shot, you will most likely need immediate medical attention if you are going to survive. Even hits in non-vital areas can result in death by bleeding, infection and/or shock. So the purpose here is not to learn how to play do-it-yourself doctor, but more-so to survive long enough to get to a real doctor.

DISCLAIMER: Perform the following tasks to save a life, and do so at your own risk. As always, Brasstard.com will not assume any liability for your actions.

IMPORTANT: If possible, make sure the scene is secure before treating any casualties. You will be of no assistance to the fallen if you become one of them. Be aware of your surroundings at all times. If possible, call emergency services immediately (before providing first aid) and follow their instructions.

Step One: Injury Assessment

You must determine the location(s) of all entry and exit wounds. Your victim might have sustained multiple hits, and it is crucial to determine which of those will have the most immediate effect on their survival. You will need to have a decent knowledge of human anatomy to be fast and effective in this stressful situation. So study up… know where the vital organs are located and where the major blood vessels are found.

If you have more than one casualty, you must perform Triage in order to decide which to treat first. In its simple form, Triage refers to the sorting of patients into the following three categories…

Those likely to survive regardless of medical care administered
Those likely to expire regardless of medical care administered
Those likely to survive if given immediate medical care

Priority is generally given in the following order, 3 then 2 then 1. Those with major injuries, who are likely to survive with immediate intervention come first. Those with major injuries, who are unlikely to survive come second. And those with only minor, or non-life threatening injuries come last. The US Army and American emergency rooms in general have even more subsections for triage. However, the main three should suffice for providing life-saving first aid in the field.

Step Two: External Bleeding Assessment

You must immediately determine the type and the severity of the bleeding;

Arterial Bleeding: Bright red and spurting bursts of blood that coincide with the heart beat
Venous Bleeding: Dark red, oxygen-depleted blood that flows more evenly
Capillary Bleeding: Dark red and slowly oozing blood or bruising that often clots on its own

Step Three: Control External Bleeding

After you have determined the type and severity of the bleeding, you must take steps to control it.

Isolate body substances by wearing protective gear such as latex gloves, safety glasses and face masks if possible
Apply direct pressure to the site of the bleeding. If direct pressure to the area fails to stop the bleeding, you may have to reach into the wound and pinch the severed vessel with your fingertips, or preferably a hemostat.
If the injury is on an extremity, elevate it to decrease the blood pressure in the injured area. You may also apply pressure to the femoral artery (groin) or the brachial artery (inner bicep) to slow blood loss in the legs or arms respectively.
If the injury includes bone damage, immobilize the extremity by making a field expedient splint to prevent further vascular damage from sharp splintered bone
If available, apply a clotting aid such as Quik-Clot gauze, then wrap with field dressing and continue to apply direct pressure
As a last resort, and only after all other methods have failed, apply a tourniquet to an amputated limb

Pearson Scott Foresman - Undated

IMPORTANT: The general guideline according to the US DOT EMT-Basic National Standard Curriculum is that tourniquets should not be used on anything other than an amputated limb, and only as a last resort. They are designed cut off all circulation to the affected area, and when left in place for extended periods of time will result in severe necrosis of everything beyond the tourniquet. Permanent damage to a limb can occur in as little as 45 minutes. This is why they are not recommended unless all other attempts to control bleeding have failed.

A tourniquet should be at least two inches wide, and be placed about two inches above the injury. It should never be placed directly over a joint, or on any body part other than a limb. Once applied, it should not be removed until the patient reaches a hospital. If a tourniquet is removed in the field, it can cause blood poisoning and lead to septic shock as infected blood is released back into the core of the body. Always document the time the tourniquet was applied, be sure it is applied securely, communicate its location to responders, and make sure it is easily visible at all times.

Step Four: Address Breathing Problems

The disruptive power of small arms can cause serious respiratory damage. One of the most common is the “sucking chest wound”. This occurs when a projectile pierces the chest and results in a partial or complete collapse of one or both lungs. As the patient attempts to breathe, the collapsed lung sucks air in through the wound into the thoracic cavity.

This can be temporarily alleviated by applying a sterile occlusive dressing over the wound and securing it on 3 of the 4 edges and corners with medical tape. This creates a sort of makeshift valve that allows air to exit the cavity without letting more air in. Once the dressing is in place, cover the patient with blankets to alleviate shock and arrange immediate transport to a trauma surgery facility.

Providing first aid for a gunshot wound to the head, neck or face is particularly challenging. This is partly due to the high chances that the injury has obstructed or destroyed the airway. You will not only have to control the external bleeding, you will also have to establish an airway.

You may have to perform an emergency tracheostomy in the field to create an airway. Despite your favorite actor making it look so simple on TV, this is a fast-paced, precision task that can be tricky under extreme stress. The neck is highly vascular, so cutting in the wrong place can lead to profuse bleeding. Also, the cutting is done in layers and should not be too deep as to avoid a complete perforation of the trachea. Furthermore, without a proper trach tube and sterile suction device, makeshift breathing tubes can quickly become clogged by mucus, blood or other fluids. For these reasons, I am not going to cover it in detail here. There are however, some good medical videos on the Internet that show the procedure in detail for the inquiring mind in you.

Step Five: Identify and Assess Internal Bleeding

The most common cause of internal bleeding is blunt force trauma. In the world of firearms, this can happen if you take some fire while wearing Kevlar. The projectile may not penetrate your skin, but you still bear the full force of hundreds or even thousands of ft/lbs of energy striking your body in an instant. Taking a 1-oz lead 12-ga slug at 10 yards while wearing soft body armor is akin to taking a full-swing hit in the chest by a sledge hammer. Needless to say, the results can be devastating if not assessed and treated properly.

For obvious reasons, internal bleeding can be much harder to assess and treat than external bleeding.

Signs and Symptoms

Pain, swelling, tenderness or discoloration of the injured area
Bleeding from mouth, rectum, vagina, or other orifice
Vomiting bright red blood or dark reddish-brown blood
Dark, tarry or bloody stool
Tender, rigid or bloated abdomen

Further Signs that Indicate Possible Shock (Hypoperfusion)

Anxiety, restlessness or other psychological disturbances
Weakness, faintness or dizziness
Excessive or prolonged thirst
Pail, cold and clammy skin
Dropping blood pressure, high heart rate and/or weak pulse
Dilated or slowly-responsive pupils
Nausea and/or vomiting

Treating internal bleeding in the field is near impossible without the right equipment. Even with the right equipment, you are merely buying some extra time to get the patient to a proper medical facility. If the person is in shock, you need to establish and maintain an airway. You may also need to apply positive-pressure ventilation and even high-flow oxygen to enrich what little blood is still flowing properly. The patient will likely need surgery to relieve the pooling of blood in the internal cavities and repair damaged vessels and organs.

Step Six: Treat the Shock (Hypoperfusion)

Your best bet to alleviate internal bleeding symptoms in the field is to treat the shock (hypoperfusion) and keep the patient breathing on their own. Keep the patient from going into shock by doing the following…

Isolate body substances by wearing protective gear such as latex gloves, safety glasses and face masks if possible
Control any external bleeding
Splint any bone injuries (see image below)
Cover the patient to prevent heat loss
Do what you can to keep the patient calm and comfortable while in transit

The bottom line is if you suspect that internal bleeding is present, get to the hospital asap!

Conclusion:

The best thing you can do if you or a loved one is injured by gunfire is to try and keep your cool and avoid panic. If you panic, you will lose your ability to make split second decisions that are crucial for survival. You or your patient will also become more susceptible to lapsing into shock. Keep a clear head and remember your training.

Other References

“Prehospital Emergency Care”, Mistovich, Hafen, Karren, Werman, 2000 Prentice-Hall
http://www.tracheostomy.com/resources/surgery/emergency.htm
http://dirttime.com/?p=1035
http://www.enotes.com/nursing-encyclopedia/tracheotomy
http://www.armystudyguide.com/content/powerpoint/First_Aid_Presentations/triage-2.shtml

Reloading, Simplified

admin — Sun, 04 Sep 2011 03:51:13 +0000

When I first started reloading, I recall feeling a bit overwhelmed by the perceived complexity of the task. Over time, I realized that reloading a modern metallic cartridge is actually quite a simple process, and is only complicated by the vast choices of equipment that we have to choose from. This post is designed to simplify and demystify the process for new reloaders, or those who are considering it in the future. You will find info on everything you need to get you started without overloading you with excessive options and accessories.

WARNING: The information in this post is designed for supplementary use, and is not intended to supersede or replace instructions from your product manufacturer. Always reference the literature provided by your product manufacturer for cartridge and load specs, as well as proper usage of your specific hardware. Always wear eye protection when reloading. And remember, I will assume no liability for your actions, so reload at your own risk.

There are only four elements in contemporary metallic cartridges; the case (brass, etc), the ignition (primer), the propellant (powder), and the projectile (bullet). Therefore, a reloader must merely restore the brass back to its original specs, insert a primer, fill the case with the correct amount of powder, and finally, seat the bullet and crimp the case mouth to hold it all in place.

The process is indeed that simple, and can be performed even with a limited budget. Just keep in mind that there is little room for error, especially when loading “max loads”. So begin with the more forgiving “start loads”, and slowly work your way up to a more robust load that suits your needs. You will need to make sure you are focused on the task at all times by limiting distractions in your environment. Furthermore, if you are not well rested, or you have just thrown back a six-pack of your favorite adult beverage, it would be wise to just go to bed and reload tomorrow.

For the sake of simplicity, let’s assume we are reloading a rimless, straight-walled auto pistol case such as the 10mm Auto (or .40, .45, .380, etc.). You will need to select the proper components for your load according to the recipe of your choosing.

Aside from the cartridge components, you will also need the following hardware:

Reloading Press
Cartridge-specific Die Set
Primer Pocket Cleaner
De-burring Tool
Case Cleaning Device (Tumbler, etc.)
Priming Tool/Attachment
Case Trimmer
Powder Scale
Caliper or Micrometer
Case Lube
Case Holder
Powder Funnel
Bullet Puller
Reloading Manual (Lee, Lyman, etc…)

_________________________________________________________________

STEP 1: Case Preparation

So, you’ve been scrounging brass at the range for months, and now you have a pile of filthy cases. The easiest and most cost-effective way to clean them is to invest in a “vibratory tumbler”. This device uses vibration, combined with a mildly abrasive dry media, such as crushed walnut shells, to clean carbon deposits from the brass. Toss a few hundred pistol cases in an let it run for several hours.

You will be using your press in every one of the following steps, so make sure you choose one that suits your needs. If you are new to reloading, you may wish to start with either a single-stage or a turret press. Progressive presses are great for mass production, but are more complex to operate. The Lee Challenger Breech-Lock Press above is a good starter press, offering solid performance and great value for your dollar.

IMPORTANT: Visually inspect all cartridge cases throughout the reloading process, and discard any that are damaged beyond repair.

After your brass is clean, you will need to remove the old primer and constrict the diameter of the expanded brass to meet the original specs. This is generally performed simultaneously, with a single die that pushes out the primer with a center punch as its perimeter re-sizes the case wall.

If you are using basic steel dies, you should apply some case lube to the upper wall of the case around the mouth. You may also use carbide dies, which do not generally require lube.

SIDENOTE: Glock users may want to check out the Lee Bulge Buster Kit for use with their Factory Crimp Die. This is a great way to remove the bulging base that is caused by the relaxed chamber of a Glock barrel. It works on many straight-walled auto pistol cases. I have used it on my Glock .40, and 10mm cases with excellent results.

Once you have resized your cases and removed the spent primers, you need to use your caliper or micrometer to measure the case length. Make sure they are not longer than the maximum allowable length in the cartridge specs. This is particularly important with rifle brass as the increased chamber pressure can result in significant stretching. Pistol cases are less prone to rapid stretching, but should still be measured for safety.

If the case is longer than the maximum allowable length, you will have to trim it down using a rotary case trimmer.

Next, you need to clean out the gunk in the primer pocket as well as removing any burrs on the case mouth. There are some handy multi-tools such as the example above from Lyman that make this job easier.

Finally, you will need to clean any remaining case lube that might exist. There are many good ways to do this, but I have found that gently sloshing them around in a Tupperware container with a mixture of mild dish soap and water, followed by a thorough rinse is usually enough to remove the lube. Afterward, you can place the cases on a cookie sheet and toss them in the oven at about 200 F for 20 minutes to dry them out.

STEP 2: Priming the Cases

So your cases are all clean, in-spec, and generally purdy… now you are ready to prime. Pistol and rifle primers come in four sizes; small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, and large rifle. Shot shells and modern muzzle loaders generally use #209 primers. So reference your cartridge specs to ensure you have the correct type of primers. There are also “magnum” primers available in all four sizes for magnum loads.

Using either a stand-alone priming tool or a press-mounted version we start installing the primers. This Lee press kit came with a large and small priming device, and many press kits come with some form of priming tool. However, some presses do not include this vital component, and it must be purchased separately. So, make sure your setup includes a priming tool so that your road does not end here.

The primer itself consists of three components; the cup, the priming compound, and the anvil. The compound is ignited when it is crushed between the cup and the anvil by the force of the firing pin.

IMPORTANT: When you seat the primer into the case, you need to apply enough pressure to force the anvil flush with the mouth of the cup. However, too much pressure will crush the cup and could cause the primer to discharge… hence the need for eye protection. Go slow and seat the primer firmly, using arm strength only… do not apply your body weight to the press handle. This step is really a matter of feel, and you will get used to it after a few dozen loads.

Visually inspect all of your installed primers to ensure that they are seated properly.

STEP 3: Expand Case Mouth & Add Powder Charge

The Lee Carbide 4-Piece Pistol Die Set that is being used here comes with a case mouth expander die that also serves as a holder for the powder funnel.

This die will bell-out the mouth of the case ever so slightly so that the bullet can be inserted without shaving the jacket. Other manufacturers offer similar products.

You will also need a sturdy case holder. You can either buy one such as the example above by Frankford Arsenal, or you can make your own by drilling some holes into a flat piece of wood or plastic. This will help you keep filled cases from spilling, and serve as a way to tell which cases have received a powder charge… the empty cases are placed upside down until you add the powder.

You then measure the powder charge on your scale to match the “start load” of your chosen load recipe. You will need a scale that is capable of accuracy down to 1/10 grain for reloading. This RCBS Rangemaster 750 has served me well for some time now. Analog scales are also reliable and accurate, but they tend to be slower than a quality digital scale. Powder tricklers and various mechanical charge dispensers are also available to supplement your scale.

After you have run the expander die and added a powder charge to all of the cases in the case holder, you should always visually inspect them to ensure that you have not added a double charge. Choosing a powder that fills at least half of the case is also very helpful in preventing a double charge.

STEP 4: Bullet Seating and Crimping

Now that the cases are prepped, the primers are seated and the powder charge is installed, you are ready to seat the bullets and crimp the cases. Crimping is the process of forcing the case mouth shut around the bullet. This serves to hold the bullet in place during recoil, and a good crimp can improve accuracy. Many bullet-seating dies also apply a basic crimp by pressing a small inward taper into the case mouth as the bullet is seated. I prefer not to use this built-in crimp for anything but range plinking ammo, as it does not offer the same quality as the separate Factory Crimp Die. It also makes for more work if you happen to seat the bullet too deep (or not deep enough) and need to pull it from the case.

IMPORTANT: Set your bullet-seating die according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Your bullet must be seated deep enough to fit within the maximum cartridge OAL (“overall length”; total length of the entire loaded cartridge) specified in the cartridge specs. The maximum OAL does not vary, and applies to all load recipes in a given cartridge. Staying under maximum OAL is crucial in ensuring that your loads function in guns designed for that cartridge. On the other hand, the minimum cartridge OAL is specified in the load recipe and varies from one load to another.

In simple terms, seat your bullet as close to the minimum OAL as you can without going under.

This minimum OAL is crucial in maintaining safe pressure levels in a given loading. It is always provided with the load recipe, and is highly dependent on the bullet and powder type. Seating the bullet deeper into the case reduces case volume, and will increase chamber pressure upon ignition. Therefore, if you have to go deeper than minimum OAL, you must reduce the powder charge accordingly to compensate for the added pressure. If you are new to this process, then please… DO NOT SEAT BULLETS DEEPER THAN MINIMUM OAL!

After the bullets are seated to the correct OAL, it is time to run them through the crimp die. Adjust your crimp die according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die creates a smooth, steady taper on the case mouth while also acting as a secondary case sizer to smooth out any remaining imperfections in the case wall.

After running all of your loaded rounds through the crimp die, you are ready to head to the range and make some holes in stuff. If you did everything correctly, you will feel a great sense of personal satisfaction and self-sufficiency knowing that the lead you are sending downrange is a result of your own hard work.

The Brasstard

Ruger 10/22 Trigger Group Disassembly/Reassembly – Detailed Tutorial & Images

admin — Fri, 26 Mar 2010 22:45:58 +0000

Sharp and detailed images will guide you through the disassembly and reassembly of the Ruger 10/22 trigger group. Use this as a reference to aid you with trigger jobs and/or installing custom parts…

Before you start, make sure that your gun is unloaded and all ammo is removed from the work area. Then, field strip your rifle as shown in these instructions.

…

The Tools Required:

A small punch (around 3/32″) to remove the cross-pins
A pair of needle-nose pliers to hold small parts
If available, a small padded vise to hold the trigger housing

____________________________________________________________________

DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

Step 1: Remove the hammer main spring…

With the safety off, hold the top of the hammer with your thumb while you pull the trigger to release the hammer and swing it forward. Caution: Hammer spring under tension. Hold hammer firmly to avoid injury.

Pull the top of the strut to remove the hammer main spring. (Below)

If you wish to remove the spring from the strut, compress the spring with your fingers while you slide the retainer clip off in the direction shown (below). Caution: Don’t let the parts fly away.

…

Step 2: Remove the ejector…

Use your punch to push out the cross-pin. Caution: Spring under tension.

Remove the ejector from the trigger housing…

…

Step 3: Remove the hammer assembly…

Use your punch to push out the hammer cross-pin.

Remove the hammer assembly from the trigger housing.

…

Step 4: Remove the bolt stop/release…

Use your punch to push out the cross-pin.

Pull the plate up and to the rear of the housing to remove.

…

Step 5: Remove the trigger/sear assembly…

Use your punch to remove the cross-pin.

… then pull the trigger/sear assembly up and out of the trigger housing.

…

Step 6: Remove the trigger return plunger/spring…

Pull the plunger straight out of the hole in the back of the trigger guard and replace the spring if necessary.

…

Step 7: Remove the magazine catch/release…

Use your index finger to depress the magazine retainer piston while you pull the mag release lever out of the bottom of the housing. You may need to wiggle the mag release a little to get it out.

Great work! You have successfully stripped down the fire control group to a bare trigger housing.

___________________________________________________________________

ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

Before you begin assembly, make sure you clean and lightly oil all of the parts in the fire control group. Do not leave excess oil on the parts, as it will only serve to attract excess dirt. Replace any of the unwanted or worn parts with new or custom parts and follow the steps below.

…

Step 1: Install the magazine catch/release…

Insert the retaining piston and spring into the hole on the front face of the trigger housing.

Use your index finger to depress the piston while you insert the magazine release lever from the bottom of the trigger housing.

Make sure the top portion of the mag release lever is in the correct position in the rear of the piston (below).

Test the function by pressing upwards on the mag release lever. It should depress the piston (below)…

…

Step 2: Install the trigger return plunger/spring…

For steps 2 and 3 it helps to clamp the trigger housing vertically so that gravity keeps the trigger return plunger/spring in place.

…

Step 3: Install the trigger/sear assembly…

First, piece together the trigger and sear using the cross-pin to hold it all in place. Make sure the spring is in the proper position in its retaining holes.

Carefully remove the cross-pin from the trigger/sear assembly, but don’t let it fall apart (above). Carefully insert the trigger/sear into the top of the trigger housing (below; double arrows) and align it with the correct cross-pin hole (below; single arrow). Insert the cross-pin.

Once it is installed, it should look like this (below)…

…

Step 4: Install the bolt stop/release…

Place the bolt stop/release plate into the trigger housing from the top. Make sure the plate is flat against the shooters left side of the housing, and ease it into position so the bottom portion comes through in front of the trigger guard.

Align the cross-pin hole in the bolt stop/release plate with the hole in the trigger housing and insert the cross pin.

Make sure the top, flat part of the bolt stop/release plate aligns with the top of the trigger housing (below).

…

Step 5: Install the hammer assembly…

Place the metal bushings into the hammer axis hole, and place the spring in the correct position on the shooters right side of the hammer (below).

Install the hammer assembly into the top of the trigger housing by lifting the rear of the bolt stop/release plate and sliding the hammer bushing under it (below). Align the cross-pin hole on the trigger housing with the hammer axis hole and insert the cross-pin.

Make sure the lower arm of the spring is correctly positioned inside the notch on the bolt stop/release plate (below).

…

Step 6: Install the ejector…

Place the ejector into the notch on the top/front of the trigger housing.

Align the ejector’s axis hole with the cross-pin hole and insert the cross-pin.

As you insert the cross-pin, compress the top arm of the spring so that it goes under the cross-pin (below).

…

Step 7: Install the hammer main spring and strut assembly…

With the safety off, pull the trigger and manually push the hammer into the forward position.

Insert the hammer main spring assembly into the retaining hole in the lower rear of the trigger housing.

Align the top of the strut with the groove on the back of the hammer.

Use your thumb to retract the hammer back into the cocked position, and engage the safety.

Congratulations! You have completed the fire control group assembly procedure. You may now reinsert it into the receiver. Have fun and stay safe out there with your Ruger 10/22.

The Brasstard

Field Strip Your Ruger MKII and MKIII

admin — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 07:22:33 +0000

This video will help you take down this tricky little pistol for cleaning and maintenence. Field strip/disassemble/reassemble the Ruger MKIII/MKII series pistols.

Field Strip Your Ruger 10/22

admin — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 07:12:37 +0000

Here is a little video to help you field strip your Ruger 10/22 rifle.

Field Strip Your AK

admin — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 07:07:25 +0000

Here is a video tutorial to help you field strip that AK47/AK variant.