The Brasstard » Guns – Technical

In Review: Fiocchi Exacta .223 – 77gr HPBT MatchKing

admin — Tue, 13 Dec 2011 05:03:14 +0000

I was recently approached by an ammo retailer called www.ammoforsale.com, who sent me some Fiocchi Exacta 77gr Sierra MatchKing-HPBT .223 (223MKD) for testing. So, I pulled out the old 90’s model Ruger Ranch rifle, some targets and a chrono and set out to see what this ammo can do. Needless to say, my tough little Ranch Rifle is not known for making dime-sized groups at the length of a football field. Just to keep things in perspective, if I get 3 or 4 MOA, I am usually pretty happy. Furthermore, the twist-rate of the scrawny Ranch Rifle barrel is not really suitable for such a heavy bullet. I usually shoot 55gr – 62gr with decent results. The heavier 77gr bullet in this Fiocchi load would be better suited for a 1:7 twist-rate. However, since I’m not a big .223 guy (sue me), it is all I had laying around for the test.

Here are the results…

Reliability

All rounds fed, fired and ejected flawlessly in my rifle. However, the Mini-14 has yet to fail me with any type of ammo, so it is hard to say how it will work in a more finicky rifle. Nonetheless, the Fiocchi load appears to be well-manufactured and provided good geometric consistency from round to round.

Velocity

My chrono results were averaging around 2,630 FPS with an average 12 FPS spread on either side of that. For match ammo, this is about perfect. The load is not too hot, and the spread is small, which provides good P.O.I. consistency.

Accuracy

The accuracy test was the point where I realized that this load needs a faster twist-rate in order to be judged fairly. My 50-yard rested groups with the Ranch Rifle varied between 2”in – 2.25”in (sigh). I am absolutely positive that this load is capable of far better performance if used in a proper platform. What I wouldn’t do for a decent bolt action .223 with a 1:7 twist-rate and a free-floating heavy barrel at a time like this.

Conclusion

The Fiocchi load provides excellent quality at a reasonable price. How can you ask for more than that? And the folks at www.ammoforsale.com are friendly, well-stocked and ready to serve.

Happy shootin’,

The Brasstard

First Aid: Gunshot Wounds

admin — Mon, 07 Nov 2011 03:50:45 +0000

Most who visit this site are well aware that calling upon the aid of others in a desperate situation can take anywhere from minutes, to hours or days for that aid to arrive. I assume this is perhaps the primary cause of your arrival at this website; you are aware of one simple fact… you alone, are the first line of defense when it comes to the safety of yourself and your family. Just as many of us have trained hard in the defensive arts, we must also be prepared to assess and provide first aid for any unfortunate injuries that may result from an armed confrontation.

The following post will cover the basics of combat trauma first aid; specifically focusing on firearm and bullet shrapnel injuries. Since I am not an EMT or a military medic, I have enlisted the consult of a colleague of mine for medical guidance and editing to ensure accuracy; he is a retired US Air Force Medical Technician who served in the Gulf War (’90-’91) and has treated numerous civilian and military combat casualties throughout his career. He knows his stuff, and now you will too…

Before we get started, we have to be clear about one piece of reality that has been painfully distorted by Hollywood tough guys over the years; if you get shot, you will most likely need immediate medical attention if you are going to survive. Even hits in non-vital areas can result in death by bleeding, infection and/or shock. So the purpose here is not to learn how to play do-it-yourself doctor, but more-so to survive long enough to get to a real doctor.

DISCLAIMER: Perform the following tasks to save a life, and do so at your own risk. As always, Brasstard.com will not assume any liability for your actions.

IMPORTANT: If possible, make sure the scene is secure before treating any casualties. You will be of no assistance to the fallen if you become one of them. Be aware of your surroundings at all times. If possible, call emergency services immediately (before providing first aid) and follow their instructions.

Step One: Injury Assessment

You must determine the location(s) of all entry and exit wounds. Your victim might have sustained multiple hits, and it is crucial to determine which of those will have the most immediate effect on their survival. You will need to have a decent knowledge of human anatomy to be fast and effective in this stressful situation. So study up… know where the vital organs are located and where the major blood vessels are found.

If you have more than one casualty, you must perform Triage in order to decide which to treat first. In its simple form, Triage refers to the sorting of patients into the following three categories…

Those likely to survive regardless of medical care administered
Those likely to expire regardless of medical care administered
Those likely to survive if given immediate medical care

Priority is generally given in the following order, 3 then 2 then 1. Those with major injuries, who are likely to survive with immediate intervention come first. Those with major injuries, who are unlikely to survive come second. And those with only minor, or non-life threatening injuries come last. The US Army and American emergency rooms in general have even more subsections for triage. However, the main three should suffice for providing life-saving first aid in the field.

Step Two: External Bleeding Assessment

You must immediately determine the type and the severity of the bleeding;

Arterial Bleeding: Bright red and spurting bursts of blood that coincide with the heart beat
Venous Bleeding: Dark red, oxygen-depleted blood that flows more evenly
Capillary Bleeding: Dark red and slowly oozing blood or bruising that often clots on its own

Step Three: Control External Bleeding

After you have determined the type and severity of the bleeding, you must take steps to control it.

Isolate body substances by wearing protective gear such as latex gloves, safety glasses and face masks if possible
Apply direct pressure to the site of the bleeding. If direct pressure to the area fails to stop the bleeding, you may have to reach into the wound and pinch the severed vessel with your fingertips, or preferably a hemostat.
If the injury is on an extremity, elevate it to decrease the blood pressure in the injured area. You may also apply pressure to the femoral artery (groin) or the brachial artery (inner bicep) to slow blood loss in the legs or arms respectively.
If the injury includes bone damage, immobilize the extremity by making a field expedient splint to prevent further vascular damage from sharp splintered bone
If available, apply a clotting aid such as Quik-Clot gauze, then wrap with field dressing and continue to apply direct pressure
As a last resort, and only after all other methods have failed, apply a tourniquet to an amputated limb

Pearson Scott Foresman - Undated

IMPORTANT: The general guideline according to the US DOT EMT-Basic National Standard Curriculum is that tourniquets should not be used on anything other than an amputated limb, and only as a last resort. They are designed cut off all circulation to the affected area, and when left in place for extended periods of time will result in severe necrosis of everything beyond the tourniquet. Permanent damage to a limb can occur in as little as 45 minutes. This is why they are not recommended unless all other attempts to control bleeding have failed.

A tourniquet should be at least two inches wide, and be placed about two inches above the injury. It should never be placed directly over a joint, or on any body part other than a limb. Once applied, it should not be removed until the patient reaches a hospital. If a tourniquet is removed in the field, it can cause blood poisoning and lead to septic shock as infected blood is released back into the core of the body. Always document the time the tourniquet was applied, be sure it is applied securely, communicate its location to responders, and make sure it is easily visible at all times.

Step Four: Address Breathing Problems

The disruptive power of small arms can cause serious respiratory damage. One of the most common is the “sucking chest wound”. This occurs when a projectile pierces the chest and results in a partial or complete collapse of one or both lungs. As the patient attempts to breathe, the collapsed lung sucks air in through the wound into the thoracic cavity.

This can be temporarily alleviated by applying a sterile occlusive dressing over the wound and securing it on 3 of the 4 edges and corners with medical tape. This creates a sort of makeshift valve that allows air to exit the cavity without letting more air in. Once the dressing is in place, cover the patient with blankets to alleviate shock and arrange immediate transport to a trauma surgery facility.

Providing first aid for a gunshot wound to the head, neck or face is particularly challenging. This is partly due to the high chances that the injury has obstructed or destroyed the airway. You will not only have to control the external bleeding, you will also have to establish an airway.

You may have to perform an emergency tracheostomy in the field to create an airway. Despite your favorite actor making it look so simple on TV, this is a fast-paced, precision task that can be tricky under extreme stress. The neck is highly vascular, so cutting in the wrong place can lead to profuse bleeding. Also, the cutting is done in layers and should not be too deep as to avoid a complete perforation of the trachea. Furthermore, without a proper trach tube and sterile suction device, makeshift breathing tubes can quickly become clogged by mucus, blood or other fluids. For these reasons, I am not going to cover it in detail here. There are however, some good medical videos on the Internet that show the procedure in detail for the inquiring mind in you.

Step Five: Identify and Assess Internal Bleeding

The most common cause of internal bleeding is blunt force trauma. In the world of firearms, this can happen if you take some fire while wearing Kevlar. The projectile may not penetrate your skin, but you still bear the full force of hundreds or even thousands of ft/lbs of energy striking your body in an instant. Taking a 1-oz lead 12-ga slug at 10 yards while wearing soft body armor is akin to taking a full-swing hit in the chest by a sledge hammer. Needless to say, the results can be devastating if not assessed and treated properly.

For obvious reasons, internal bleeding can be much harder to assess and treat than external bleeding.

Signs and Symptoms

Pain, swelling, tenderness or discoloration of the injured area
Bleeding from mouth, rectum, vagina, or other orifice
Vomiting bright red blood or dark reddish-brown blood
Dark, tarry or bloody stool
Tender, rigid or bloated abdomen

Further Signs that Indicate Possible Shock (Hypoperfusion)

Anxiety, restlessness or other psychological disturbances
Weakness, faintness or dizziness
Excessive or prolonged thirst
Pail, cold and clammy skin
Dropping blood pressure, high heart rate and/or weak pulse
Dilated or slowly-responsive pupils
Nausea and/or vomiting

Treating internal bleeding in the field is near impossible without the right equipment. Even with the right equipment, you are merely buying some extra time to get the patient to a proper medical facility. If the person is in shock, you need to establish and maintain an airway. You may also need to apply positive-pressure ventilation and even high-flow oxygen to enrich what little blood is still flowing properly. The patient will likely need surgery to relieve the pooling of blood in the internal cavities and repair damaged vessels and organs.

Step Six: Treat the Shock (Hypoperfusion)

Your best bet to alleviate internal bleeding symptoms in the field is to treat the shock (hypoperfusion) and keep the patient breathing on their own. Keep the patient from going into shock by doing the following…

Isolate body substances by wearing protective gear such as latex gloves, safety glasses and face masks if possible
Control any external bleeding
Splint any bone injuries (see image below)
Cover the patient to prevent heat loss
Do what you can to keep the patient calm and comfortable while in transit

The bottom line is if you suspect that internal bleeding is present, get to the hospital asap!

Conclusion:

The best thing you can do if you or a loved one is injured by gunfire is to try and keep your cool and avoid panic. If you panic, you will lose your ability to make split second decisions that are crucial for survival. You or your patient will also become more susceptible to lapsing into shock. Keep a clear head and remember your training.

Other References

“Prehospital Emergency Care”, Mistovich, Hafen, Karren, Werman, 2000 Prentice-Hall
http://www.tracheostomy.com/resources/surgery/emergency.htm
http://dirttime.com/?p=1035
http://www.enotes.com/nursing-encyclopedia/tracheotomy
http://www.armystudyguide.com/content/powerpoint/First_Aid_Presentations/triage-2.shtml

Reloading, Simplified

admin — Sun, 04 Sep 2011 03:51:13 +0000

When I first started reloading, I recall feeling a bit overwhelmed by the perceived complexity of the task. Over time, I realized that reloading a modern metallic cartridge is actually quite a simple process, and is only complicated by the vast choices of equipment that we have to choose from. This post is designed to simplify and demystify the process for new reloaders, or those who are considering it in the future. You will find info on everything you need to get you started without overloading you with excessive options and accessories.

WARNING: The information in this post is designed for supplementary use, and is not intended to supersede or replace instructions from your product manufacturer. Always reference the literature provided by your product manufacturer for cartridge and load specs, as well as proper usage of your specific hardware. Always wear eye protection when reloading. And remember, I will assume no liability for your actions, so reload at your own risk.

There are only four elements in contemporary metallic cartridges; the case (brass, etc), the ignition (primer), the propellant (powder), and the projectile (bullet). Therefore, a reloader must merely restore the brass back to its original specs, insert a primer, fill the case with the correct amount of powder, and finally, seat the bullet and crimp the case mouth to hold it all in place.

The process is indeed that simple, and can be performed even with a limited budget. Just keep in mind that there is little room for error, especially when loading “max loads”. So begin with the more forgiving “start loads”, and slowly work your way up to a more robust load that suits your needs. You will need to make sure you are focused on the task at all times by limiting distractions in your environment. Furthermore, if you are not well rested, or you have just thrown back a six-pack of your favorite adult beverage, it would be wise to just go to bed and reload tomorrow.

For the sake of simplicity, let’s assume we are reloading a rimless, straight-walled auto pistol case such as the 10mm Auto (or .40, .45, .380, etc.). You will need to select the proper components for your load according to the recipe of your choosing.

Aside from the cartridge components, you will also need the following hardware:

Reloading Press
Cartridge-specific Die Set
Primer Pocket Cleaner
De-burring Tool
Case Cleaning Device (Tumbler, etc.)
Priming Tool/Attachment
Case Trimmer
Powder Scale
Caliper or Micrometer
Case Lube
Case Holder
Powder Funnel
Bullet Puller
Reloading Manual (Lee, Lyman, etc…)

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STEP 1: Case Preparation

So, you’ve been scrounging brass at the range for months, and now you have a pile of filthy cases. The easiest and most cost-effective way to clean them is to invest in a “vibratory tumbler”. This device uses vibration, combined with a mildly abrasive dry media, such as crushed walnut shells, to clean carbon deposits from the brass. Toss a few hundred pistol cases in an let it run for several hours.

You will be using your press in every one of the following steps, so make sure you choose one that suits your needs. If you are new to reloading, you may wish to start with either a single-stage or a turret press. Progressive presses are great for mass production, but are more complex to operate. The Lee Challenger Breech-Lock Press above is a good starter press, offering solid performance and great value for your dollar.

IMPORTANT: Visually inspect all cartridge cases throughout the reloading process, and discard any that are damaged beyond repair.

After your brass is clean, you will need to remove the old primer and constrict the diameter of the expanded brass to meet the original specs. This is generally performed simultaneously, with a single die that pushes out the primer with a center punch as its perimeter re-sizes the case wall.

If you are using basic steel dies, you should apply some case lube to the upper wall of the case around the mouth. You may also use carbide dies, which do not generally require lube.

SIDENOTE: Glock users may want to check out the Lee Bulge Buster Kit for use with their Factory Crimp Die. This is a great way to remove the bulging base that is caused by the relaxed chamber of a Glock barrel. It works on many straight-walled auto pistol cases. I have used it on my Glock .40, and 10mm cases with excellent results.

Once you have resized your cases and removed the spent primers, you need to use your caliper or micrometer to measure the case length. Make sure they are not longer than the maximum allowable length in the cartridge specs. This is particularly important with rifle brass as the increased chamber pressure can result in significant stretching. Pistol cases are less prone to rapid stretching, but should still be measured for safety.

If the case is longer than the maximum allowable length, you will have to trim it down using a rotary case trimmer.

Next, you need to clean out the gunk in the primer pocket as well as removing any burrs on the case mouth. There are some handy multi-tools such as the example above from Lyman that make this job easier.

Finally, you will need to clean any remaining case lube that might exist. There are many good ways to do this, but I have found that gently sloshing them around in a Tupperware container with a mixture of mild dish soap and water, followed by a thorough rinse is usually enough to remove the lube. Afterward, you can place the cases on a cookie sheet and toss them in the oven at about 200 F for 20 minutes to dry them out.

STEP 2: Priming the Cases

So your cases are all clean, in-spec, and generally purdy… now you are ready to prime. Pistol and rifle primers come in four sizes; small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, and large rifle. Shot shells and modern muzzle loaders generally use #209 primers. So reference your cartridge specs to ensure you have the correct type of primers. There are also “magnum” primers available in all four sizes for magnum loads.

Using either a stand-alone priming tool or a press-mounted version we start installing the primers. This Lee press kit came with a large and small priming device, and many press kits come with some form of priming tool. However, some presses do not include this vital component, and it must be purchased separately. So, make sure your setup includes a priming tool so that your road does not end here.

The primer itself consists of three components; the cup, the priming compound, and the anvil. The compound is ignited when it is crushed between the cup and the anvil by the force of the firing pin.

IMPORTANT: When you seat the primer into the case, you need to apply enough pressure to force the anvil flush with the mouth of the cup. However, too much pressure will crush the cup and could cause the primer to discharge… hence the need for eye protection. Go slow and seat the primer firmly, using arm strength only… do not apply your body weight to the press handle. This step is really a matter of feel, and you will get used to it after a few dozen loads.

Visually inspect all of your installed primers to ensure that they are seated properly.

STEP 3: Expand Case Mouth & Add Powder Charge

The Lee Carbide 4-Piece Pistol Die Set that is being used here comes with a case mouth expander die that also serves as a holder for the powder funnel.

This die will bell-out the mouth of the case ever so slightly so that the bullet can be inserted without shaving the jacket. Other manufacturers offer similar products.

You will also need a sturdy case holder. You can either buy one such as the example above by Frankford Arsenal, or you can make your own by drilling some holes into a flat piece of wood or plastic. This will help you keep filled cases from spilling, and serve as a way to tell which cases have received a powder charge… the empty cases are placed upside down until you add the powder.

You then measure the powder charge on your scale to match the “start load” of your chosen load recipe. You will need a scale that is capable of accuracy down to 1/10 grain for reloading. This RCBS Rangemaster 750 has served me well for some time now. Analog scales are also reliable and accurate, but they tend to be slower than a quality digital scale. Powder tricklers and various mechanical charge dispensers are also available to supplement your scale.

After you have run the expander die and added a powder charge to all of the cases in the case holder, you should always visually inspect them to ensure that you have not added a double charge. Choosing a powder that fills at least half of the case is also very helpful in preventing a double charge.

STEP 4: Bullet Seating and Crimping

Now that the cases are prepped, the primers are seated and the powder charge is installed, you are ready to seat the bullets and crimp the cases. Crimping is the process of forcing the case mouth shut around the bullet. This serves to hold the bullet in place during recoil, and a good crimp can improve accuracy. Many bullet-seating dies also apply a basic crimp by pressing a small inward taper into the case mouth as the bullet is seated. I prefer not to use this built-in crimp for anything but range plinking ammo, as it does not offer the same quality as the separate Factory Crimp Die. It also makes for more work if you happen to seat the bullet too deep (or not deep enough) and need to pull it from the case.

IMPORTANT: Set your bullet-seating die according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Your bullet must be seated deep enough to fit within the maximum cartridge OAL (“overall length”; total length of the entire loaded cartridge) specified in the cartridge specs. The maximum OAL does not vary, and applies to all load recipes in a given cartridge. Staying under maximum OAL is crucial in ensuring that your loads function in guns designed for that cartridge. On the other hand, the minimum cartridge OAL is specified in the load recipe and varies from one load to another.

In simple terms, seat your bullet as close to the minimum OAL as you can without going under.

This minimum OAL is crucial in maintaining safe pressure levels in a given loading. It is always provided with the load recipe, and is highly dependent on the bullet and powder type. Seating the bullet deeper into the case reduces case volume, and will increase chamber pressure upon ignition. Therefore, if you have to go deeper than minimum OAL, you must reduce the powder charge accordingly to compensate for the added pressure. If you are new to this process, then please… DO NOT SEAT BULLETS DEEPER THAN MINIMUM OAL!

After the bullets are seated to the correct OAL, it is time to run them through the crimp die. Adjust your crimp die according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die creates a smooth, steady taper on the case mouth while also acting as a secondary case sizer to smooth out any remaining imperfections in the case wall.

After running all of your loaded rounds through the crimp die, you are ready to head to the range and make some holes in stuff. If you did everything correctly, you will feel a great sense of personal satisfaction and self-sufficiency knowing that the lead you are sending downrange is a result of your own hard work.

The Brasstard

Getting into 10mm Auto?

admin — Mon, 04 Apr 2011 05:22:41 +0000

One Brasstard.com reader recently contacted me with some questions about getting into a new 10mm Auto pistol. He had some great questions about 10mm guns, ammo, and accessories, and I thought it would be worth sharing with others who might be considering a 10mm in the future.

Hello,

First, I want to say that I really appreciate the time you put into your reviews on brasstard.com. ; I just found your website today while searching the internet, and I’ve been reading ever since. Specifically, I’ve been looking at information on the Glock 20 10mm because I am in the process of purchasing one. I was quite excited when I noticed that it seems to be one of your favorite guns. I know there are people that have extreme feelings on both ends of the spectrum concerning the 10mm, but I am definitely a fan.

I’ll be using it to take into the backcountry where I’ll be seeing mostly wolves, coyotes, bear, and the occasional cat. I’m curious as to what type of ammo you recommend for this use. I’m going to get a few different types from DoubleTap, but I wanted to hear more about your experiences before I purchase from them. I’d also like to hear any recommendations for home defense as well as everyday range use ammo as well. I liked your idea about shooting the less expensive .40 S&W cartridge so I’ll probably look at getting that barrel also. Everything in your review basically confirmed the feelings I had on the G20 from doing my own research so I’m glad I read it.

I’ve got so many more questions, but I just wanted to get in touch with you about ammo for the time being, and let you know I appreciate your work.

Thanks again for your reviews and for your help!

T.W.

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…

Hi There,

Thanks for the kind words of support. I’m glad you are enjoying the site. I think you will be very happy with the G20 and the 10mm cartridge. The G20 will eat pretty much anything you feed it. I have not found it to be picky about ammo types at all. For woods defense, I would go with heavy FMJ or hardcast lead flat points. 200g at 1100-1200 fps will do the trick. Those will penetrate about 4 feet into a charging beast.

For home defense and CCW, I would go with more moderate loadings. I really like the Winchester 175g Silvertip factory load. It is potent, accurate and reliable without being excessive. DoubleTap, Buffalo Bore, and Corbon also make some great defensive ammo in 10mm, but they tend to be loaded hotter. For human predators, you can do just fine with a middle-of-the-road loading. Going too hot will slow down your follow ups and produce a lot of muzzle flash in the dark. I would stick with modern 165-180g JHP loads in the range of 1300-1200 fps (respectively) for self defense against bad people.

I would really recommend you look into reloading for the 10mm. It is a very easy cartridge to reload (being a straignt-walled pistol cartridge), and it gives you lots of options. Even if you don’t do it at first, you may want to save your brass just incase you decide to later. 10mm brass is pretty rare to scrounge at the range, so don’t throw away the goods. Also, the .40 conversion barrels are a great way to shoot more and spend less. Plus, you can use your 10mm mags to shoot .40, and use the 10mm reloading dies to load .40 as well.

Best of luck, and have fun with it.

The Brasstard

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…

Brasstard,

Hello again, I’ve been looking at a few local places to buy everything I’m looking to get, but I was curious if you know of any reputable businesses online where I can buy most everything I need? Gun, ammo, barrel, recoil spring, etc.?

Also, any thoughts on the G20 vs the G29? I like the idea of the smaller size of the G29, but I’m not sure if that small size will negatively impact my accuracy on follow up shots. My main use will be taking it backpacking and hiking in the woods, and I see you do the same with yours so I’m still leaning toward the G20. I’ll also have it at home, but the my consideration for the small size was in reference to carrying while on foot. I figured I’d ask just to be sure before I buy.

Finally, do you have a newsletter or any monthly email updates?

Keep up the great reviews!

T.W.

______________________________________________________

…

TW,

For the stated purposes, such as woods carry and home defense, I would go with the full-size G20 or G20SF. It is still much easier to carry than the big-bore, steel-frame revolvers that many of us carried for years. Plus, it helps make the hotter loadings easier to handle. If you plan to use it for a daily CCW piece, you may consider the G29. The recoil is not bad by any means, but it is a bit more stout than the G20 with the hot-rod loads, and there is a slight loss in muzzle velocity due to the shorter barrel.

As for buying the gun, I would recommend you first find a reputable, local FFL dealer. You will need one if you order the gun online, and they may be able to get the gun you want direct from their own distributor. You can also check out Gunbroker.com to find new and used guns… just buy from sellers with good ratings. As for ammo, you can get good 10mm factory loads from many online sources. However, I would recommend you seriously consider reloading for 10mm and maybe even .40 S&W if you get a conversion barrel. It will pay for itself quickly, and you can tailor your loads to your liking.

You can get your conversion barrel direct from Lone Wolf, or you can try to find a 3rd party dealer to get a slightly better price. There are other brands who offer conversions as well, but the prices tend to be higher than LW. You can get the 22# recoil spring and steel or tungsten guide rod from places like Glockstore.com, Glockmiester.com, etc…

Beyond that, I would recommend you check out TheHighRoad.org. It is a great gun forum that has helped me out a lot over the years. There is a lot of good info there… just remember to try the search feature before posting new topics. Most folks’ questions have been covered at some point in the past. As for updates from Brasstard.com, you can sign up for an RSS feed at the upper right corner of the site.

Best of luck,

The Brasstard

In Review: .177″ Hunting Pellets

admin — Sat, 19 Feb 2011 00:20:11 +0000

In this post, we will take a look at three high-grade .177″ hunting pellets, and how they perform in wet mass. These include…

Beeman “Crow Magnum”
Gamo “Rocket”
Gamo “Red Fire”

The test gun was a Crosman 2100 Classic pump rifle, and the test medium was a single, water-soaked phone book.

The entry’s above were fired from a distance of 10 feet. The “Shooting Chrony” did not register the tiny projectiles at all. So, I cannot provide you with impact velocities. However, the Crosman 2100 Classic will generally push pellets to 700-750 FPS, depending on the design and weight of the projectile.

Midway through the book, the Red Fire and the Crow Magnum are showing signs of good expansion where the Rocket did not expand.

At the rear of the book, only the Gamo Rocket managed to fully penetrate. Above, you can see how the two Rocket rounds were stopped by the polyethylene backstop. The Red Fire and the Crow Magnum both penetrated through 2/3 of the book before coming to a rest. Since this particular book was a bit thinner than the standard ones I use, I have calculated the following estimates for ballistic gelatin penetration equivalents…

Gamo Red Fire = 4″- 5″ in ordinance gelatin
Beeman Crow Magnum = 4″- 5″ in ordinance gelatin
Gamo Rocket = 6″- 7″ in ordinance gelatin

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Recovered Projectiles

The Red Fire displayed excellent expansion, even at these modest velocities, and was recovered with an average diameter of 0.242″.

The Crow Magnum was the best performer when it comes to expansion with a recovered diameter of 0.251″.

The Rocket did not expand or deform at these velocities. However, the heavy weight of the pellet makes for fantastic penetration for quick kills on small game.

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Conclusion

All three of the pellet designs performed very well. The Red Fire and the Crow Magnum work great on a wide variety of small game, and deliver uniform expansion and energy transfer without over-penetrating. The Rocket is a great choice for slightly larger animals where more penetration is needed… I personally know an entire coop of deceased, over-fed feral pigeons that can attest to that.

Any of the three pellets ought to quickly drop game up to the size of a large crow (at reasonable distances) as long as you do your job as a marksman. Accuracy-wise, all of the pellets shot true through the rifled barrel of the 2100 Classic. The best groups came from the Crow Magnum, but not by much. All were well within the acceptable range of accuracy needed to hit small targets.

Happy Shootin’

The Brasstard

In Review: Akuna Brass Catcher (ABC)

admin — Mon, 27 Dec 2010 20:00:10 +0000

If you reload for auto pistol’s, I am certain that you are familiar with the hassles of tracking down your spent brass after it has been launched into the upper edge of the exosphere. This article will take an in-depth look at the latest version of brass catchers from Sherwood Akuna.

The Akuna Brass Catcher (ABC) is attached to the pistol via standard accessory rail, and can be locked into place by (gasp) bending the lower-front bar into the retaining notch.

The brass collection basket is supported by dual, coated metal rods and a tension wire.

The collection basket is made of a coated synthetic mesh, with a detachable collection pouch.

The collector covers both the top and side of the ejection port.

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Performance:

The field testing of the ABC revealed some strengths and some weaknesses. The first thing I noticed about it (before I even set foot on the shooting range) is that the rubberized coating was flaking off all over my hands and my gun. I can’t imagine that the coating will last very long with heavy use if it is coming off from merely installing the unit. As a result of the brittle coating, there were a couple of spots where the metal rod beneath was exposed… and this was right out of the box.

The next issue I had with the Akuna Brass Catcher was the fact that I had to bend the metal bar in order to get it to lock into place on the Weaver rail notch. Over time, tightening and releasing this lock bar will most likely work-harden the metal, causing it to become brittle and break off… sort of like bending a paper clip back and forth until it breaks. On a positive note, the unit attaches pretty firmly even without engaging the lock bar. So, it will stay in place with lighter recoiling target loads even if you do not bend the bar into the retaining notch. However, when I fired some 10mm max loads without the lock bar engaged, the recoil moved the ABC out of position after just a handful of rounds.

The final issue that got to me was the fact that the ABC only caught about 40% of the brass I fired. The rest hit the rim of the basket and fell to the ground at my feet… still better than ending up in the next zip code, which is where my 10mm brass usually ends up.

As it stands, the current level of design and materials do not coincide with the substantial price tag of $80. Ideally, this device would have a frame made of injection-molded polymer, with an easily-engaged lock mechanism, such as those you would find on a tactical light/laser combo. That way we could reduce the weight, bypass the messy rubber coating and questionable lock system, and simultaneously tame the excessively high price tag.

Unfortunately, small businesses have difficulty affording the massive up-front design and tooling costs of injection-molded parts, and instead rely on tedious, hand-fitted wire bending, and baths in mystery rubber. Despite all of it’s shortcomings, this is actually one of the better units currently available. That says a lot about the massive void in the status quo of this niche market.

I can only hope that Mr. Akuna chooses to reinvest his sales earnings into creating a molded unit. He is on the right track with the basics of the design concept, but really needs to address the critical issues above to create an item of value. Until then, the search for the ideal pistol brass catcher treads forth.

For more info, go to http://www.sherwoodakuna.com/

Happy Shootin’

The Brasstard

Rainier Plated Bullets: Do the hollow points expand?

admin — Mon, 01 Nov 2010 21:35:08 +0000

If you are involved in reloading, you may have heard about companies like Rainier and Berry’s who produce value-priced, copper-plated bullets. In this article, we will take a look at the .40 caliber Rainier plated hollow point to see how it performs in wet mass…

The test gun is a Glock 20 (Gen III) with a 4.6″ Lone Wolf .40 conversion barrel.

The load is .40 S&W – 165 grain 0.401″ Rainier Plated Hollow Point over 4.9 grain of TiteGroup and a CCI #500 primer. The OAL is 1.126″.

The chronograph velocity is averaging right around 1000 FPS at 10 ft.

The media is a pair of soaked phone books with additional backing of one dry book to arrest the bullet.

The entry wound of the Rainier was pretty aggressive. (above)

Tissue disruption at the back of the first book is significant. (above)

Here it is coming into the second book. (above)

Here is the exit wound coming out of the second book. It was a good 4″ wide from end-to-end. The bullet expanded to 0.511″ and retained 164.9 grain of it’s original mass.

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UPDATE: Recently Added 10mm Test

The load is 10mm Auto – 165 grain 0.401″ Rainier Plated Hollow Point over 13.5 grain of Accurate #9 and a Winchester Large Pistol (WLP) primer. The OAL is 1.250″.

Chronograph velocity is averaging around 1225 fps.

The bullet expanded to 0.695″, but only retained 139 grain of it’s original weight. The higher velocity of the 10mm load caused rapid expansion as well as some fragmentation and shedding of the “petals”. Nonetheless, it created a hefty wound channel that would likely ruin a bad guy’s day. The bullet penetrated to the second half of the second phone book, or at least 12″-15″ of ordinance gelatin. Despite the higher velocity, the plating did not fail and remained firmly bonded to the base and sidewalls after impact.

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Conclusion:

Rainier plated bullets are a healthy compromise between the dirtier cast lead bullets, and the more expensive jacket hollow points. They keep your barrel free of lead fouling, they reduce toxic lead vapors in your shooting area, and they are very affordable. Now, these would probably not be my first choice for defensive loads mainly due to the fact that you can get better performance from jacketed designs (your life is worth the extra $$$). However, they did expand well, they retained most of their mass, the plating remained intact at reasonable velocities, and they are reliable and accurate. So, from a theoretical standpoint, I suppose they would work just fine for self defense if that is all you have available. Lord knows I wouldn’t want to get shot by one.

Caution:

Plated bullets are not designed to withstand excessive pressures/velocities. Therefore, if you plan on using them for faster cartridges such as .357 Sig, 10mm Auto, .357/.44 Magnum, etc… make sure you use reduced loads. There is little consensus on what the exact threshold of plating failure is, but I have had good results by reducing jacketed bullet max-load data by 7-10%.

For more info, go to http://www.rainierballistics.com/

Happy Shootin’

The Brasstard

In Review: The Venerable Glock 20

admin — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 01:20:29 +0000

Part combat sidearm, part mountain gun, the Glock Model 20 is a serious workhorse with vast potential. For many 10mm Auto aficionado’s, it is revered as being one of the best platforms for this hefty cartridge. After spending a considerable amount of time with one by my side, I have little choice but to agree. Lets take a closer look at what makes the G20 such a wonderful and diverse tool…

The large-frame G20 shares controls that will be familiar for any Glock owner. It is a no-nonsense system that is simple, reliable, and easy to operate. Squeezing the 5.5 pound double action trigger deactivates the multiple integrated safety mechanisms and retracts the internal striker. The trigger breaks clean, with minimal over-travel and a reasonably short reset. For a stock double action trigger, the G20 is very conducive of good accuracy. On the subject of accuracy, you would be hard pressed to find an autoloader that handles long-range shooting as well as the G20. With the right loads, you can shoot relatively flat out to about 150 yards. And from a rested position with some hold-over, I was able to hit a torso-sized steel target at 300 yards about 60% of the time. Not too bad for these aging eyes.

The front strap of the 3rd generation G20’s have finger grooves for added grip stability. Some folks say the grips on these big Glocks feel like you are holding a 2×4. You may or may not agree, as this is a matter that is purely subjective. But for my large hands, it feels like it was custom made for me.

The back strap also has a molded-in texture for added traction. It is designed to keep the web of your hand high in relation to the bore axis. This, along with the aggressive grip angle, helps keep the muzzle flip to a minimum by forcing the slide straight back, as opposed to up and away.

The stock sights were one of the first things I had to get rid of. I have never been a big fan of Glock’s proprietary polymer sights, and didn’t even get it home before I removed them. These low-profile Trijicon night sights make for a good balance between the many uses I have for this gun. Glock also offers quality factory night sights as an optional upgrade.

If you are planning on running full-power 10mm loadings through your G20, you should seriously consider using a 22-pound recoil spring instead of the stock 17-pound spring. It helps to keep the breech closed longer during cycling, which gives you more consistent velocities and resists the premature opening of the breech. The spring can be fitted over a nice aftermarket steel or tungsten guide rod for a smooth and silky action.

The standard magazines have a 15-round capacity, and neutered 10-round mags are also available if you happen to live in a rights-restricted state. With 15+1 rounds of brawny 10mm in your hands, you have more firepower than virtually any other auto-loading handgun on the market.

A wide and tapered magazine well makes for fast and easy reloads. This unit has been fitted with a Scherer Slug Plug to help keep dirt out of the opening in the bottom of the back strap.

One of the best things I like about the G20 is the ability to switch calibers with a simple, drop-in barrel swap. In this case, I went with a Lone Wolf 10mm-to-.40 S&W conversion barrel. This allows you to use your standard G20 magazines to fire the cheaper and more readily available .40 S&W cartridge. So far, this combo has been 100% reliable, even when used with the heavy 22# recoil spring. Amazingly, the point of impact is basically the same as the 10mm barrel out to about 50 yards.

The fit and finish of Lone Wolf barrels are very good considering the affordable price. The chambers are tight and well-supported, which helps protect your phalangeal assets when playing with homemade .40 S&W concoctions.

The conventional rifling makes the Lone Wolf barrels more compatible with cast lead bullets for your homegrown reloads. Though Glock recommends you avoid the use of cast lead bullets in the stock barrel, I have found that running 20-30 hardcast lead loads does not cause any substantial leading problems. Therefore, you can easily fill a mag or two with heavy, +200g hardcast loads for woods defense without worrying about it.

Conclusion:

If you are looking at entering the realm of the 10mm Auto, I would recommend you take a serious look at the Glock 20 or it’s little brother the G29. The G20 is also available in “SF” Short Frame format, which makes the grip more comfortable for shooters with smaller hands. Furthermore, the durability and reliability of these guns are hard to match. I have run about 800 rounds of 10mm and another 500 rounds of .40 through this gun so far, ranging from the hot-rod factory loads from DoubleTap Ammo and Buffalo Bore, to more mild loads from PMC and Winchester. It has also worked very well with a wide variety of hand loads; from powder-puff-light .40’s, to sledge-hammer-heavy 10’s. It appears that this is but a drop in the bucket of the lifespan you can expect from this gun. Internally, the components still look new, and it has never failed to process a single piece of ammunition.

I have used this gun primarily as a sidearm for my hunting and backpacking ventures through the remote northern Rockies. It has been pounded by freezing rain and small hailstones at over 10,000 feet, yet shows no signs of wear or oxidation on the finish. It has been a great alternative to a large-frame revolver that can weigh almost twice as much. Despite being such a portable package, it still packs a sizable punch, with 200g @ 1250 fps loads pushing nearly 700 ft/lbs of energy. These ballistics match the hottest .357 Magnum offerings, and even rival some moderate .41 Magnum loads. In other words, if you do your job, it is more than capable of taking down virtually anything in the lower 48. Considering the impressive ballistics, the G20 is a pleasure to shoot, even with full-power loads. If my wallet permits, I can easily fire 200 rounds in a single session without feeling wrecked. I can’t say the same for my snub-nosed .38 Special.

Despite being a relatively obscure cartridge, the 10mm Auto has survived since the 1980’s mainly due to a small but zealous fan base. I have never met anyone that has owned a 10mm who did not absolutely love the cartridge. Whether you are a 1911 lover looking at a Nighthawk Custom, or a revolver fan looking at a S&W M610, there is a 10mm platform for everyone. If you want to read more on 10mm ballistics, check out this post where I tested some full-power loads. I’m sure you will find the results to be both entertaining and impressive.

Happy Shooting!

The Brasstard

In Review: Gamo Rocket Pellets

admin — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 21:42:37 +0000

The Gamo Rocket pellet is likely to impress even the most demanding hunter. The unique design of the BB-integrated hollow point, and the sheer down-range power of the Rocket makes for a very useful and diverse pellet.

This relatively heavy .177 caliber (4.5 mm) 9.6 grain projectile is designed to expand by forcing the BB into the hollow cavity on impact. The added weight makes for a significant increase in retained energy at longer distances, and makes it less susceptible to excessive effects of crosswinds.

I tested this ammo in a Crosman 2100 Classic, which only produces about 700 fps at the muzzle. Nonetheless, it produced some amazing real-world results on small game in comparison to other hunting pellets. The first thing I noticed is that it is very accurate, and 25-yard rested groups were about 1.5″ with open sights. The second thing I noticed is that the Gamo Rocket packs a mean punch.

Some time ago, I was suffering from a pigeon infestation in my carport. I needed a humane way of eliminating the pests quickly without using poisons or traps. After taking the first few birds with standard all-lead pellets, I realized the need for more punch as they all required multiple hits before the bird expired. This is when I decided to try a batch of Gamo Rocket pellets on the fat little squatters. Every single subsequent bird expired quickly with only one shot using the Rocket pellets… and I was taking them from a considerable distance of 15-30 yards. I could see and hear the difference immediately… the sound was a solid thud, and the lights go out… one painless ticket to pigeon heaven.

I also tested these on some wet phone books to see how they expand and penetrate. Unfortunately, the 700 fps muzzle velocity of the 2100 Classic is not enough to fully expand the Rocket. I am betting that another 200 fps would do the trick as several of the pellets began to show signs of preliminary expansion. Penetration was very good, with all rounds passing at least half of a phone book. This equates to about 5″-6″ in ballistic gelatin.

Overall, the Gamo Rocket pellet is an excellent choice for any small game hunting or pest control application.

Gamo Rocket Official Site

Happy Hunting! The Brasstard

Ruger 10/22 Trigger Group Disassembly/Reassembly – Detailed Tutorial & Images

admin — Fri, 26 Mar 2010 22:45:58 +0000

Sharp and detailed images will guide you through the disassembly and reassembly of the Ruger 10/22 trigger group. Use this as a reference to aid you with trigger jobs and/or installing custom parts…

Before you start, make sure that your gun is unloaded and all ammo is removed from the work area. Then, field strip your rifle as shown in these instructions.

…

The Tools Required:

A small punch (around 3/32″) to remove the cross-pins
A pair of needle-nose pliers to hold small parts
If available, a small padded vise to hold the trigger housing

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DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

Step 1: Remove the hammer main spring…

With the safety off, hold the top of the hammer with your thumb while you pull the trigger to release the hammer and swing it forward. Caution: Hammer spring under tension. Hold hammer firmly to avoid injury.

Pull the top of the strut to remove the hammer main spring. (Below)

If you wish to remove the spring from the strut, compress the spring with your fingers while you slide the retainer clip off in the direction shown (below). Caution: Don’t let the parts fly away.

…

Step 2: Remove the ejector…

Use your punch to push out the cross-pin. Caution: Spring under tension.

Remove the ejector from the trigger housing…

…

Step 3: Remove the hammer assembly…

Use your punch to push out the hammer cross-pin.

Remove the hammer assembly from the trigger housing.

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Step 4: Remove the bolt stop/release…

Use your punch to push out the cross-pin.

Pull the plate up and to the rear of the housing to remove.

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Step 5: Remove the trigger/sear assembly…

Use your punch to remove the cross-pin.

… then pull the trigger/sear assembly up and out of the trigger housing.

…

Step 6: Remove the trigger return plunger/spring…

Pull the plunger straight out of the hole in the back of the trigger guard and replace the spring if necessary.

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Step 7: Remove the magazine catch/release…

Use your index finger to depress the magazine retainer piston while you pull the mag release lever out of the bottom of the housing. You may need to wiggle the mag release a little to get it out.

Great work! You have successfully stripped down the fire control group to a bare trigger housing.

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ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

Before you begin assembly, make sure you clean and lightly oil all of the parts in the fire control group. Do not leave excess oil on the parts, as it will only serve to attract excess dirt. Replace any of the unwanted or worn parts with new or custom parts and follow the steps below.

…

Step 1: Install the magazine catch/release…

Insert the retaining piston and spring into the hole on the front face of the trigger housing.

Use your index finger to depress the piston while you insert the magazine release lever from the bottom of the trigger housing.

Make sure the top portion of the mag release lever is in the correct position in the rear of the piston (below).

Test the function by pressing upwards on the mag release lever. It should depress the piston (below)…

…

Step 2: Install the trigger return plunger/spring…

For steps 2 and 3 it helps to clamp the trigger housing vertically so that gravity keeps the trigger return plunger/spring in place.

…

Step 3: Install the trigger/sear assembly…

First, piece together the trigger and sear using the cross-pin to hold it all in place. Make sure the spring is in the proper position in its retaining holes.

Carefully remove the cross-pin from the trigger/sear assembly, but don’t let it fall apart (above). Carefully insert the trigger/sear into the top of the trigger housing (below; double arrows) and align it with the correct cross-pin hole (below; single arrow). Insert the cross-pin.

Once it is installed, it should look like this (below)…

…

Step 4: Install the bolt stop/release…

Place the bolt stop/release plate into the trigger housing from the top. Make sure the plate is flat against the shooters left side of the housing, and ease it into position so the bottom portion comes through in front of the trigger guard.

Align the cross-pin hole in the bolt stop/release plate with the hole in the trigger housing and insert the cross pin.

Make sure the top, flat part of the bolt stop/release plate aligns with the top of the trigger housing (below).

…

Step 5: Install the hammer assembly…

Place the metal bushings into the hammer axis hole, and place the spring in the correct position on the shooters right side of the hammer (below).

Install the hammer assembly into the top of the trigger housing by lifting the rear of the bolt stop/release plate and sliding the hammer bushing under it (below). Align the cross-pin hole on the trigger housing with the hammer axis hole and insert the cross-pin.

Make sure the lower arm of the spring is correctly positioned inside the notch on the bolt stop/release plate (below).

…

Step 6: Install the ejector…

Place the ejector into the notch on the top/front of the trigger housing.

Align the ejector’s axis hole with the cross-pin hole and insert the cross-pin.

As you insert the cross-pin, compress the top arm of the spring so that it goes under the cross-pin (below).

…

Step 7: Install the hammer main spring and strut assembly…

With the safety off, pull the trigger and manually push the hammer into the forward position.

Insert the hammer main spring assembly into the retaining hole in the lower rear of the trigger housing.

Align the top of the strut with the groove on the back of the hammer.

Use your thumb to retract the hammer back into the cocked position, and engage the safety.

Congratulations! You have completed the fire control group assembly procedure. You may now reinsert it into the receiver. Have fun and stay safe out there with your Ruger 10/22.

The Brasstard